KL-LONDON CYCLING MARATHON 2011

Peshawar - The oldest living City in South Asia

2012-02-02T02:06:00.001+08:00

If you ever come to Pakistan be sure to visit Peshawar, the capital of Pakhtunkhawa, formerly the North West Frontier Province (NWFP) which runs for over 1,100km along the border with Afghanistan. The famous Khyber Pass linking Pakistan to Afghanistan is the most direct route from Kabul to Peshawar. Peshawar is perhaps the oldest living city in this part of the world where ancient traditions mingle with those of today's modern lifestyle. The old city have been featured in a number of Hollywood movies ( including Rambo ||| ) featuring tribesmen walking the streets armed to the teeth (they have now been forbidden to walk armed in the town). It is however still possible to buy guns here.

In Peshawar we (me and my son) had the good fortune to meet with 'Prince' Mahir Ullah Khan, President of The Peace Welfare and Development Organization and togather with Kausar Hussain kindly acted as guides showed us around the city's notable buildings and sites. These two gentlemen are registered tourist guides and are well known in Peahawar. 'Prince' is a colourful character who is not only known to the man in the streets but to those holding high positions in government. They are also active in voluntary charitiable work.

Walking along the labyrinth of narrow lanes and bazaars in the old city brings you back to the times dating back to Buddhist, Mughal and Sikh periods when traders ,travellers, Pathan tribesmen and Afghans mingle to trade their wares or share stories of their travels in the traditional teahouses with those arriving with their caravans from different parts of the world.
Some of these centuries old tea shops are still doing roaring business to this day.

Some of the interesting buildings in the old city are listed below:

The Mahabat Khan Mosque that was built in 1670 is a Mughal mosque named after the regional governor of that time. Its open courtyard has an ablution pond and the prayer hall is flanked by two tall minerets. In Sikh times under the governorship of the Italian mercenary Paolo de Avitabile the minerets were frequently used as a substitute for gallows.

The All Saints' Church located inside the old city is unique as it looks like a mosque. In the words of one of its founding fathers Reverand Warthington Jukes "Its architecture is a successful adaptation of mosque architecture to the purposes of Christian worship.

Also in the old city is the ancestral house of the famous Bollywood actor Raj Kapoor, and nearby is Dilip Kumar's house

The Peshawar Club established in 1864 as a small hut for Peshawar Vale Hunt enthusiasts, became the social hub of social life for British families in Peshawar. It was meant exclusively for the Europeans (like the Selangor Club and Lake Club were in KL) , a venue for the memsahibs' afternoon tea parties and other social gatherings. After the creation of Pakistan, this institution retained many of its time- honoured club etiquette and traditions. A few years ago, however, the military took over the club adminstration and named it 'Garrison Club'. The club is the cradle of squash in the region. The famous 'Khan dynasty' that has dominated international squash for more than half a century began its modest beginnings here.

Balahisar Fort is the most imposing structure in Peshawar. Built by the Sikhs in 1834, it has been the headquarters of the Frontier Corps since 1907 and is still used by the army.It was here that the Koh-i-Noor diamond, which is now part of the British Crown Jewels was taken from the former Afghan rulers by the Sikhs. It was later acquired by the East India Company after the annexation of Peshawar in 1849 and later presented to Her Majesty Queen Victoria in 1850. (Some of my colleagues from Brinsford might remember of the Koh-i-Noor restaurant we used to frequent in Wolverhampton).

It was also in Peshawar in mid 19th century that the British elite Corps of Guides adopted the Khaki (tan) uniform copying the colour of the cloth of the local tribesmen, a perfect camoflage for Frontier warfare. This colour was later adopted by armies all over the world.

Peshawar is one of the oldest cities inhibited continuously from 4-6 century BC as part of the Persian Empire. From then onwards it was ruled in turn by the Mauryans, Greeks, Scythians, Kushans Sasanians, White Huns, Hindu Shahis, Ghaznavids, Ghorids, Suri Afghans, Mughals, Durrani Afghans, Sikhs and the British, before becoming Pakistan in 1947. The ongoing archaecological excavation site at Gor Khatri clearly shows the various levels where different artifacts of different periods are found, some dating back to more that two thousand years.

Also within the Gor Khatri archaeological complex is the Gorak Nath temple constructed in memory of Gorak Nath , a Hindu religious teacher.

Begum Jehan Ara elder dauhgter of Mughal king Shah Jehan came to Peshawar and constructed a caravansarai in Gor Khatri around 1641 AD. This sarai was used by the caravans as a resting place by those who travelled on the Grand Trade route to Afghanistan and Central Asia and from Central Asia to India.

There are also two antique fire engines parked in the old Fire Brigade station. They were manufactured by Merryweather London in 1919 and 1921 .These are among the oldest surviving fire brigade engines in the world.

Darra is the gun factory of the Tribal Areas that we were not able to visit due to time constrain. We are told that the factories started in 1897. In return for turning a blind eye to this illegal Pathan enterprise,the British were guaranteed safe passage along the main roads.. In any case the British believed it better that the Pathans have inferior weapons of their own making than stolen British-made guns. While the tools are somewhat primitive the forges turn out accurate reproductions of every concieviable sort of weapons, from pen pistols and hand grenades to automatic rifles, Kakashnikov AK-47 and anti-aircraft guns.

Lastly I must mention our wisit to the Afghan refugee camp managed by 'Prince' on the outskirts of Peshawar. It is heartbreaking to see small children existing on the barest of necessities and never knowing what the future holds. All were born here and have nener ventured beyoud the confines of the camp. Many of these children do not have shoes or proper clothes and do not attend school as they are 'forced' to work at the brick factory at the camp to earn some money that help to feed the families.

Some of you may be wondering why I don't blog regularly. The truth is I am blogging using the iPad and most places I end up in do not have WiFi connections and going out to the Internet cafes is not an option. In Pakistan we have power cuts every few hours throughout the day and night. Power cuts take place in all the cities and towns all over Pakistan even in the capital Islamabad. No Malaysian will understand this because in Malaysia we have electricity throughout the day and night. It is frustrating even to watch the TV when the programmes goes off the screen. Try imaginine yourself at the computer and suddenly the power goes off and will come on again two hours later. Not only that, gas and petrol are also in shortage here. After this blog I should be in Iran and from some sources it is also not an easy place for travellers. For those following my blog I thank you all very much and do bear with me. I have interesting tales to tell but there is only so much I can do. It is also winter now and the cold add up to problems as well.

With the colorful Prince

The children at the Refugee Camp near Peshawar

The antique Fire Engine at Gor Khatri in Peshawar

The excavation site in Gor Khatri

Saying goodbye to Friends

The All Saints' Church

That's me and the 'Prince' in his den

The brick factory at the camp

This tea shop have been operating for more than 300 years

The streets are narrow in the old city

Cycling in winter

The Old Caravan Sarai in the old city

The Dilemma of travelling in Pakistan

2012-01-11T20:01:00.001+08:00

                  Our cycling in Pakistan was to take 5 to 6 weeks to complete, from the border crossing at Wagah across the country to Taftan and into Iran. The plan seemed simple enough until you encounter the 'real-life' situations in 'today's' Pakistan.We left Lahore (cycling) towards Multan, Quetta and Taftan, a distance of about 2,000 km., but while cycling in itself is no big deal, what we encountered along the way is 'extraordinary' to say the least. 85km out of Lahore at a rest area for 'chai' (tea) we met Mr Shawkat, a distributor of Shazen products in the locality, whom after listening to the stories of our 'adventure' invited us to stop at his village (Renala Khurd) for a meal, and to make it easier for us, loaded our bicycles into his van and drove us to his village to meet his family.
    Haji Muhammad Fahim, his brother-in-law then insisted that we stay for the night before moving on. He also cooked the tastiest chicken curry I've tasted since leaving Malaysia taken with chapatis and also provided us a room for the night. Before spending the night in the village we had to go to the local police station to report our presence in the village, as assurance that Haji was not harbouring 'foreign agents' in his house. Haji Fahim had worked in Manchester, as maintainence manager of the Holiday Inn before returning to settle in Pakistan as his family was not comfortable with the lifestyle and culture in England. Haji Fahim is also a widely travelled man and speaks good English.
  The next morning we left the village with a heavy heart, leaving behind people who had been so kind and generous and that we are not likely to meet again. Haji Fahim even presented Aede with a jacket knowing that we would face colder conditions as we progress.We continued cycling and had hoped to stop in Shahiwal for the night but were utterly flabbergasted when no hotels would take us in for security reasons. It was indeed a frustrating situation and we had no choice but to move on. In Multan we were faced with the same situation. Small hotels without authorization to accept foreign visitors again refused us and turned us away.Foreign visitors are only accepted at 'star rated' Hotels with security sanctions, places which we could not afford. Luckily we managed to contact Sajjad's ( the manager at Lahore Backpackers) cousin ,Ali, who arranged for us to stay with a family in Multan. Haji Shawkat and his brother Mr Masood are businessmen manufacturing and exporting textile products like embroidered bedsheets, rugs and prayer mats for export to Saudi Arabia , Indonesia , Malaysia etc. We visited the factory and also the retail shop and then taken around the city to be introduced to everyone wherever we stopped. We visited the huge market where everything is sold from thread and needles, pots and pans, chains and locks, shampoo and perfumes etc
             When they know that we are Malaysians and are Muslims they promptly mentioned Dr Mahathir although they had never visited Malaysia.I drank countless number of 'chais' and cokes in the process. Such is the friendliness of the people.I doubt if other Malaysians have visited Multan.Multan is a very old city dating back to the time of Alexander the Great ( some believe he died in Multan) . Invaders including the Huns, Arabs, Moghuls right up to the British have fought for control of the city. There are several old shrines in the city - the most outstanding being the Shah Rukn- e- Alam ( pillar of the people) built in 1320. It is truly a magnificent structure winning the Aga Khan award for architectural restoration. The shrine of Hazrat Bahaudin Zakaria (1182 - 1266), Shah Rukn's grandfather, is another magnificent structure. The intricate carvings seen inside and the blue tiles and superb frescoes seen on the facade are a real marvel.

        More Muslims from Malaysia need to travel to these places to see and appreciate Islamic art at its finest.Our stay in Multan is indeed memorable as we made friends with so many people from the man in the streets to the very well-to-do. We were hosted to a sumptuous dinner by youngsters Ali and Mutahzar (19 and17) whom we met in Shahiwal. Their father is the Pakistani High Commissioner to New Zealand and are back for a vacation. The family is well known in Multan and owns huge tracks of real estate including a castle. Their residence is walled with armed personnel manning the entrance. They also have a farm near Multan and homes in Lahore. Being sons of a diplomat they have travelled widely and are well read. When travelling by train they use the private VIP carriage complete with valet and waiters as their uncle is in charge of the Railways.
                 Also in   Multan we enjoyed the company of 'Uncle Masood' who provided us with a hilarious show of his antics to friends and family members while we were there. To us, he is No 1 showman in Pakistan.From Multan we did not continue to cycle towards Quetta as we were advised to consider other options due to the security risks. Instead we travelled to Rawalpindi and to Islamabad (in the opposite direction) to seek advice from the Malaysian High Commission there.
            Cycling on Pakistani roads (and highways) are fairly easy as traffic is not heavy except in towns and cities, and as we approached Islamabad the roads are wide and with good road signs. We reached the youth hostel without difficulty but I had to make a new membership card to replace the one I lost with my wallet to enable me to stay there. That cost me 800 rupees. The hostel has basic facilities and is affordable.
             The Malaysian High Commission in Islamabad follows strange working hours : the notice at the gate says , open Mondays to Fridays from 8am to 12 noon. On Friday it closes at noon and re-opens on Monday. A long weekend I'd say.Islamabad is a modern city (Adminstrative Capital) like what Putrajaya is to Malaysia. It was designed in 1958 by the then President Ayub Khan . Foreign architects and planners were brought to plan from the scratch and as a result the city does not have much character like Putrajaya.The city has wide tree-lined avenues, and rectangular modern buildings with little architectural identities.
             There are however some interesting sights to see, like the 'Monument', situated on a hill overlooking the city, the Cultural Village and the Islamabad museum. There are several ways to move around Islamabad but luckily no motor rickshaws are allowed. The most popular mode seemed to be the Toyota and Mitsubishi vans that seats 9 to 10 passengers but is more often packed to up to 20 passengers (not a good image to portray in a modern capital city). The Faisal Mosque is another attraction in Islamabad. It ia a gift from King Faisal bin Abdul Aziz of Saudi Arabia and designed by a Turkish architect. It has minarets rising up to 88 meters. The mosque can accomodate 100,000 worshipers.

             While we need to leave Pakistan in the last week of January (unless we have our visas extended) we are not too keen to leave so soon as we do not want to be in Europe too early because of the cost factor. Here in Pakistan we can enjoy the same cost as in Malaysia or even lower, but once we leave Pakistan the cost will progressively rise. We have been in Pakistan for more than 3 weeks now, but so far we have only met about a dozen tourists (all in Lahore) .To see a Malaysian tourist would be wishful thinking and to see a Malay (Muslim) tourist would be a 'miracle'. I have spoken to several operators of adventure tours and treks including to K2 base camps and the Karakoram regions, but all have yet to see Malaysian Malays (Muslims) doing the treks. Many Malaysian Chinese and Singaporeans have done so but not Malays. Why? I know why, but I am not telling you.

     The one irritation that people cannot avoid in Pakistan is the regular power cuts throughout the day. In most places we have been, it takes place at regular intervals , some lasting one hour and some lasting for two hours. So, you need to know when you can use the computer (if there is connection) or when to do the laundry (if you have a washing machine). All banks and most business and commercial buildings have generators that automatically switch on when the power is off. It is strange that with several rivers flowing from the mountains that HEP (hydro electric power) cannot be generated to provide enough supply for the whole country if proper planning is done . The other problem that is apparent is the shortage of fuel that drives the vehicles using gas. In many places you see vehicles lining up to fill gas at the pumps. We are told that there are shortages and in some cases have disrupted public transportation like the railways. Speak to any Pakistanis they will tell you the trains are always fully packed but at the same time losing money.

               What most seem to agree is that the leaders are corrupt including the President. Fresh elections are expected soon and Pakistanis are optimistic of a brighter future. I hope so, too. One thing a Pakistani will proudly tell you is that very few Pakistanis live below the poverty level while in neighbouring India 50 percent of the people live below poverty level.

  When we were in Lahore we appeared on TV on two channels: Channel 5 and Xpress Channel describing our interesting adventure. Since then, many people recognized us and in many places people stop to chat with us and have photographs taken with us. To many of them it must be unusual to see a father and son cycling together for such a long period and through so many countries. Many just want to know why we are doing it.

Leaving Lahore

At Renala Khurd

Prayer mat factory in Multan

Delhi Gate in Multan

Mausoleum of Shah Rukn-e-Alam

With Ali and Mutahzar

With University of Karachi netball team and their coach

At the monument in Islamabad

Amazing Lahore

2011-12-22T15:33:00.001+08:00

My original intention was to stay in Lahore for two days and then move on to Okara and onwards to Quetta and eventually to Taftan before crossing the border to Iran. However due to circumstances and the incredible generosity and friendliness of the people here, we have to be here for a few days more.

On the second day here Aede had a slight flu, so we thought we'd wait for another day. Then he had a bad toothache and had to visit the dentist. Upon examination the dentist advised him to come again the next day for x-ray and further examination . Then, there was infection and the final procedure, had to wait until the swelling subsides and the final decision is taken.It was finally decided that the tooth had to be extracted.
While here I attended a Sufi music and dance at the Jamal Shrine and I must say that it was a noisy affair with the drummers and dancers doing their stuff like they were possessed. The dancers were throwing their heads in all directions and twirling their bodies and arms round and round endlessly in a trance. The audience were all seated cross-legged or squatting round a wood-fire smoking. I am told that many are high on hashish that is illegal but at these Sufi gatherings, the authorities allow a certain leeway as long as no undesirable elements are present.

Aede and I also visited the Badshahi Mosque that was built in 1673 ,during
Shah Jehan's time.It is said that the mosque took three years to build , with the strength of 20,000 labour force and artisans. Much of the intricate work within the mosque are similar to those found in the Taj Mahal. The mosque can accomodate 100,000 worshippers at any one time. Outside the walls of the mosque is the Lahore Fort, another imposing structure that is the focus of many visitors to Lahore. Also in the same area is a beautiful Gudhwara. In fact Lahore has many grand old buildings, some of which were built during the British colonial period.

On Sunday.18th December, I had the opportunity to witness (attend) the biggest protest rally I had ever seen. It was held at the Menara Lahore and from my estimate there must have been more than a million people at the rally. In previous days before it, there were a lot of announcements made all over the city about the rally, asking people to attend and what struck me most is that there was not a single policeman or the anti-riot squad present, that we often see in Malaysia whenever we have a gathering . My reasoning is simple: if the people want to protest and hold a rally peacefully, no one can stop them, not in a democratic country. But everyone who wants to voice their protest must be present. For instance, do we have enough security personnel to stop 1,000,000 people from going to, say Dataran Merdeka to attend a rally. But of course there must be a good enough reason for the people to attend. The protest here in Lahore is to oppose the government's policy of allowing the US forces to operate freely in Pakistan resulting in many deaths among the innocent Pakistanis. At the rally leaders made fiery speeches but the people present were all calm and peaceful Those opposing the government in Malaysia can take the Q on how to organise a rally there.

On Monday, the Lahore Guesthouse was the location for a TV family drama shoot starring Saleem Sheikh , Nadia Afghan, Kamran Mujahid and others and we were very lucky to be able to witness the shooting and also meet the stars, who were wery warm towards us, although they are big stars.They even obliged to have their pictures taken with us. That's how gracious and friendly Pakistanis can be. Mr Nauman (Naomi), the producer who is only 28 was also there to give us an insight into the TV and film industry in Pakistan.

At a KFC outlet, Aede and I also met Kiran Goraya who became our friends and we were even invited to the Goraya house for lunch. Shama Zaka, Kiran's sister is the President of (MYO) Pakistan and the treatment we got from the Gorayas made us feel that they are just like our own family.

Last night the Lahore Bacpackers was the venue for the exclusive performance by Badar Ali Khan and Bahadur Ali Khan of Hajvery Quwwal. They are well known in Pakistan. It was indeed a brilliant performance by the singers and musicians who performed in a small area as we sat around listening to their mesmerising renditions in a cosy atmosphere.Our stay here have indeed been wonderful.

One afternoon, Sajjad the GH manager took me on his motorcycle to visit his folks in the suburbs of Lahore some 8 km away. It is interesting to note that just outside the city, life has continued in many ways that were practised for many generations. Livestock are reared within the family house dwellings, dung for fuel dried on the walls outside the house, cattle, sheep and goats feeding on leaves and grass in the sheds within the enclosures of the dwellings and small children running around playing innocent children games. In the streets, Mecedes Benzs, BMWs, motor taxis, motorcycles, bicycles, horse and donkey carts and all kinds of transportation share the streets that is so picturesque and colourful. I am lucky to be able to experience such a wonderful mix of co-existance in the 21st century. ' And I said to myself, What a wonderful World' - Louis Armstrong.

The other thing I must mention here is, the incredible varieties of food that are found in Pakistan . We have sampled so many Biryani's, never from the same outlet, and although I am not much into food, they all taste different, yet heavenly . Unlike India, meat is widely used here and the varieties of barbequed meat, tikkas, kebabs, and other meat dishes,with exotic names, some of which I find very hot and spicy, can be had if you know where to get them. My only complain is that while I do enjoy these culinary delights, my stomach is not to happy with them. Very often after consuming them it began to growl violently and at times had to rush to expel the contents. White rice is not commonly sold as the people here seem to prefer naan, roti or chapatis. As for fruits, bananas, guavas, oranges and pomegranates are widely sold on the streets. (sorry no durians)
It is getting colder by the day, and I hope we are able to cope with that as we move on.

With Umi Habibah and Katherine from Beijing

NAdia and Saleem Sheikh

Updates

2011-12-15T19:22:00.000+08:00

10th December was Aede's birthday and we cycled the 9 km through New Delhi traffic to the High Commission because we had something to pick up from there. Coincidentally, the HC was having it's Family Day, so we joined in the festivities together with some 70 people from the HC, Malaysians working in New Delhi and visitors from Malaysia..To my surprise, among those present were Andrew John, my former student from Rawang and his wife and two children. Andrew has been here for the last 14 years. Another gentleman, Shah from Maxis and his niece Rumaizah were also there. I know Shah from a meeting in PJ some time ago and he even got me to talk with Jacinta in Dubai. Jacinta is the daughter of my colleague Leslie and Mona, when we were in Brinsford Lodge, England, way back in the early 60s.Also there was Raja Kamal , a retired lecturer from UPSI in Tanjung Malim, and James Yeoh from Grolier International and his family. There were fun and games and also lucky draws. Best of all Malaysian food like satay, curry chicken , nasi bryaini etc were served for lunch. For me, it was indeed a memorable occasion.

In the evening we had dinner with Andrew and his family at a Cultural Village. Meeting Andrew was indeed nostalgic as I knew his mother, and his brother Ashley way back in the 70s when they were young school kids.I am sad to know that his mother is not in the best of health..

On Monday,12th, I again had to go to the HC to sort out my Visa extension as it would expire on the 14th. The HC staff through their experience advised me to leave India immediately, as the Indian authorities are
not likely to grant me the extension.They, then arranged for us to take the coach to Amritsar the same night to enable us to cross the border at Wagah the next day.. We reached Amritsar the next day at almost 12 noon as there was heavy fog most of the way, and after much difficulty, with cycling through the usual busy traffic reached Wagah border at around 3.30 pm. Stopping at a stall before going through the Immigration and Customs complex, one Mr Mukhtar Singh who was managing the stall, knowing that we were from Malaysia insisted that we had a drink at his stall. Mr Singh had worked in Singapore for 7 years before coming back here to start his business.He was so glad to meet us and chatted about the sweet memories he had while there and his association with Malaysians and Singaporeans.

For the brief stop at Mr Singh's stall we missed going through the border by 15 minutes as the gate to Pakistan was already closed. I had one more day (14th) to leave before my visa expired so we went back to see Mr Singh who felt that it was partly his fault that we missed going through to Pakistan. He then arranged for us to stay at the Tourist Complex and later that night took us to his house for a chapati dinner and to meet his 'clan' at his house.. The next morning (14th Dec) we finally entered Pakistan after going through the Immigration and Custom formalities of both countries. I also lost my second Malaysian flag from the bicycle while having a snack at a stall . Looks like many people collect Malaysian flag.

Lahore, in Pakistan is some 35 km from Wagah and the highway leading to it is pleasant, as traffic was light, but cyclists and motorcyclists kept coming alongside to have a chat asking where we were going to and where we were from. Schoolchildren and other cyclists were also curious about our bicycles especially Aede's because his not only has the gears but also disc brakes. Lastly they would ask the price and said that they could get five to eight local bikes for the same price.

10 km from Lahore city center, traffic became heavier and we had to tackle the hundreds of motorcycles , bicycles, donkey carts, etc making progress very slow and at about 4 km from our destination we came across a Suzuki Motorcycle promotion sale center and the manager, Mr Asad Farooq waved to us to stop. Although we explained that we were in no way interested in the bike, he insisted that we stop for a drink. When explained our mission and our country of origin, all the staff took a special interest and invited us into the office and also gave us a light lunch of roti and dhal. I must say that that was a good start for our first day in Pakistan..

We had no difficulty locating the Lahore Backpackers Hostel as Heather and Stuart ( the cycling couple whom I met in Kolkata and where we had stayed together at the Paragon GH ) had given us the address and on arrival there, was greeted by Mr Sajjad who made us feel very welcome. Lahore Backpackers is a very clean and pleasant place with clean baths and hot water plus, washing machine and a rooftop lounging area. Mr Sajjad is a wonderful person who would go the extra mile to make your stay in Lahore a memorable one.I doubt you can find a friendlier place in Lahore. We don't know how long we'd be in Lahore, we'll see.

With Mr James Yeoh and wife

With my former student Andrew and his lovely wife

With Mr Hamizan from the Malaysian HC

Ms Rumaizah

With Mr Singh

Suzuki Showroom Family

Mr Sajjad from Lahore Backpackers

Traffic Madness on Indian Roads

2011-12-09T23:41:00.001+08:00

I have been in India for about 3 weeks and after experiencing the traffic on Indian roads and the antics of Indian road users it is really baffling to me trying to understand the psyche or the mental make up of the Indians here. All of them from the pedestrians, the cyclists, the cycle rickshaw operators, the 3-wheel tuk-tuk drivers, car drivers, truck and bus drivers all seem to be in a great hurry, be it on rural roads or in the busy streets of the cities and towns. Indians in Malaysia , don't take offence, but the Indians here don't seem to care for other Indians or anybody else while on the road. The tuk- tuk will stop just about anywhere to pick or drop passengers without using the indicators.The buses, too, will do the same with passengers hopping on or jumping off, while the bus is still moving in the busiest of streets.

On the highway, slow vehicles hog the right lane while all manner of vehicles from the buses, trucks and cars overtake on the left. While the highway has a cycling lane, many parts of it are filled with a thick layer of fine sand making cycling impossible forcing you to move right, exposing you to real danger. What is most annoying is that you have to be very alert all the time because all kinds of vehicles may be using the same lane coming from the opposite direction ; bicycles, motorcycles, tuk-tuks, buses ,trucks and even tractors. I also wonder if there is a law against overloading. You just wonder if there's any Highway Code at all. But the best part is no one gets annoyed no matter how you behave on the road.. I have yet to see anyone losing his temper on the road. Everything seems to be acceptable.

Cycling from Agra to New Delhi.

We left Agra at daybreak in heavy fog with visibility of about 20 meters. It was cold and gloomy but we made good progress as traffic was light except when going through the towns along the way. After covering more than 100 km and in fading light we decided to stop for the night. The hotel room along the highway would have set us back by 2,000 rupees but we were very lucky for an Indian Oil petrol station manager, further down the road, offered us his place for the night. To top it all he even gave us dinner. Thank you Mr Sohan Lal. It is not all negative after all in India.

The next morning we left the petrol station , again in very heavy fog with the usual hazards but fortunately for us we rode without much problems and was at the suburbs of New Delhi around 2.30pm. We were back into heavy traffic repeating the madness. The only difference is the more modern infrastructure, like the MRT and the shopping malls and fast food outlets. After asking for directions at several junctions we finally reached the New Delhi Railway Station area (Pahar Ganj) where the backpacking crowd are found .We are now at the Sky View guesthouse to sort out and plan our next move. My India visa ends on the December 14th.

Cycling in heavy fog at daybreak

No prize for a correct guess

A camel train on the highway to New Delhi

In New Delhi

Writing From Agra

2011-12-06T22:59:00.001+08:00

Hi,
Agra is home to the Taj Mahal, one of the seven wonders of the world. While just about everyone who comes to Agra visits the Taj Mahal,I am not at all keen to see it at close range. The reason, the entry fee is a hefty 750 Rupees. That is more than 35 times what the Indian nationals pay. I don't make 35 times what the average Indian makes, so I just cannot afford it. Agreed, foreigners should pay more than locals, but not 35 times. We pay more at Angkor Wat , Borobodur, Ho Chi Min's Mausoleum, but certainly no more than 5 to 10 times. What irks me most is that the areas outside the gates of Taj Mahal, conditions in the streets are as appalling as the streets in Varanasi and Kolkata.

I won't regret not seeing it at close range as I have seen enough of it through numerous documentaries and videos that take you through all its wonders. Seeing parts of it from the outside took my imagination back to the time when Shah Jehan and the love of his life Mumtaz while they were alive nearly 400 years ago. There are still traces of the grandeur of Agra outside the gates of the Taj Mahal. It must have been a lovely place with all the well tended gardens and beautifully landscaped surroundings. Sadly, now only the Taj Mahal and the areas within its walls are well taken care.The authorities must do more to make Agra a more pleasant place for visitors to stay longer as Agra has more to offer than just the Taj Mahal. The locals should also benefit from the tourist dollars. The basic infracture in Agra must improve. I am certain things were better in Shah Jehan's time.

Deen JB, Kolkata is the new name for Calcutta just like Teluk Intan is for Telok Anson, Mumbai for Bombay, Chennai for Madras and Varanasi for Benares and before that Kasi. For Varanasi, the name changes according to the name of the God that decends on it during different periods. Who knows Kuala Lumpur may be called 'Kulum' fifty years from now.

This morning Aede joined other tourists both local and foreigners while I explored other parts of Agra including the so called the up-market area where the five star rated hotels are located. Some boasts of guests like Bill Clinton and most recently Tom Cruise who was here a few days ago.

Aede and I also did some cycling around the Agra Fort in the afternoon. Tomorrow we will cycle towards New Delhi, about 200km away.

Thank you Goon and Kuan Yee, Joe ,Hassannuddin, Zahariz, and others who have been following my blog and also post comments. I certainly appreciate them.

From the rooftop of our guesthouse with the Taj Mahal in the back ground

View from the back

At the Agra Fort

The adventure continues

2011-12-03T20:47:00.001+08:00

Unlike China, communications in India is fairly easy as most people, even in the rural areas speak English. Give a few more years, young people in China would also be speaking English more widely. At the biggest bookstore in Kunming ( 4 floors) I was at the English section and saw many English school books that are used by the children. English literature titles are read by the children: Oliver Twist, Sherlock Holmes, Wuthering Heights, Three Musketeers, Don Quxiote, etc are those available on the shelves.Flipping through the books I saw comprehension exercises at the end testing the children's skills.

Varanasi is a holy place to the Hindus like what Mekah is to the Muslims, but here there is so much poverty and the conditions appalling. The streets are choked with all manners of traffic, the dust and filth plus the stray animals make movements seem impossible, but amazingly everything just blend harmoniously.

The Ghats by the Ganga (the Ganges River) is a hive of activities with the sounds of drums, the chanting of prayers and the smells of incense and the clicking of cameras by the tourists. Scores of people can be seen washing or bathing in the river "purifying" themselves although the Ganga is said to be one of the most polluted rivers (in the world?). The water level is now low and scores of rowing boats vie for the trickle of tourist in the low season.

After 2 and half months on the road I have yet to meet a Malaysian traveller. Most of the backpackers are Europeans or from the West. Also evident are many young Japanese couples, Koreans and Chinese. A young Japanese woman (Hiroko 28) from Kanagawa is staying at the same guesthouse as us for 4 months. She is hoping to start a business here designing clothes. She is also learning the local language.

Walking on the streets, you also need to watch your steps to avoid tripping, stepping on animal dung (and sometimes human faeces) and other obstacles. You also have to be alert with the person walking in front of you for he may suddenly turn his face and spit out the reddish beetlenut spittle that can land on you. The cow is a sacred animal to the Hindus and they are sometimes seen lying in the middle of the busy street with everyone trying to avoid knocking into them.

India is a very big country and to know the real India you can spend a year and not see half of it. After 2 weeks in India and the unfortunate incidents I went through, I need to leave in a hurry as my visa is coming to an end. I applied for my visa in KL 3 months ago and the duration of my visa began when it was approved. So, after more than 2 months travelling through Thailand, Laos and China I only have about 3 weeks in India. On the other hand I have 45 days in Pakistan from the day I enter it.

My next port of call is Agra, and I hope the Taj Mahal can erase the unpleasant episodes I had in India so
far.

Breakfast with Fengyan, Heather & Stuart

Stuart & Heather

Cycling on Howrah Bridge

With Peter & Nick

This is democracy!

More of Kunming

2011-12-02T21:46:00.001+08:00

The Hump Hostel at Jinmabiji is the focus point of most backpacking tourists in Kunming. It has dormitories, 8 bedded, 6, 4, with bath outside and double and triple rooms with attached bath. It also has a rooftop open air restaurant, bar, pool table, table tennis table and Internet/Wifi facilities. You can also book tour packages and airline tickets. Before I left Kunming, I had the opportunity to dine at a posh muslim restaurant, courtesy of Mr He Ning who was a Committee Member of the Communist Party in Yunan Province. Mr He is a close friend of Mike (66) from Alaska who is a cyclist and regular visitor to China. Mike who has also cycled extensively in many places in Asia and the Americas share many things in common with me: his wife is Chinese and they are both teachers like me, they also have 2 grown up sons.

Mr He Ning, a businessman, who was a GM of a company is now a director of some companies. According to Mr He Ning, Yunan is the biggest (60%) producer of cigarettes in China and the local Government encourages smoking to boost production and provide employment to the people. Unbelievable if it is true.

Without overland border crossing between China and India, I had no choice but to fly to Kolkata, India and unfortunately had to fork out a hefty sum for the ticket booked through the Hump Hostel. As check -out time was 12 noon and the flight was at 12.30am the next day I sat out the rest of the day at the hostel waiting for my ticket which was not delivered until 6pm. My young friend, Eric, on hearing of my plight, cycled 35km to make sure I make it to the airport to catch my flight by cycling with me to the airport at 9pm.

Another problem arose at the airport as there was no "security service wrap" for the bicycle. I finally had to fork out 100 Yuan to the luggage packaging personnel for an improvised box. Without Eric and some Chinese cyclists who were also flying with their bicycles (in boxes) to assist me, I would have missed the flight.

I reached Kolkata after some 2 hours 15 minutes, at 1.30am local time and clearing all formalities had to reassemble my bicycle watched by some uniformed security personnel ( with guns ). After more than 1 hour I decided to ride out to the city. The distance is about 30-35 kilometers but without the usual traffic. I reached that part of the city, known as Salt Lake City, as I later found out. It is a posh residential area that housed the well to do. On asking the way to the city center, from an elderly couple who were walking, (exercising) I was invited for breakfast at their residence, nearby. My riding attire and fully loaded bicycle was a strange sight to them. The kind gentleman was a retired doctor, Dr Roy, who has 2 daughters one in London and the other in China. He even helped me cross an overhead bridge with steps so that I could cross over to the other side to the city center. A good start in India.

At around 5.30am when it was already bright here and the traffic began to build up, I rode around asking people to direct me to the tourist area, when at an intersection, I saw a couple(cyclists) also with the same intention. We then joined forces and had breakfast together at a corner stall. We then found our way to Sudder Street where most foreign visitors and backpackers congregate. The couple, Stuart from Scotland and Heather from New Zealand ( http://uppingsticksontour.wordpress.com/ )and I finally landed at the same guesthouse, the Paragon. They stayed there for 3 days before leaving for the Andaman on a 60 hour boat ride. They are really a nice couple sharing their knowledge and experience with other cyclists. For some reasons the 'Paragon' seems to attract many touring cyclists (total of 6 cycle tourists).

Kolkata is the most crowded city in the world and the traffic and other conditions here are just beyond description. The streets are also home to thousands of the destitute, beggars the handicapped and stray animals. While the city now has TV, internet, mobile phones and fast food outlets(KFC, Dominos) many things have not changed in the last 50 years. There are still the barefoot rickshaw pullers, the cycle rickshaws, the three wheeled motor taxis, the rickety tram cars and the thousands of yellow or white taxis, what was known during the British rule, as Morris Oxford. It is of course produced in India under a different name now. Where ever you go you are not far from the smells of urine, faeces, dung and rotting garbage. The city is like one huge toilet. But then, that's what many tourists come to experience. According to Peter (63) an Australian who's been here 7 times in 32 years he wouldn't be here if the city changes its character.

My elder son (Aedewan) flew into Kolkata with his bicycle to join me for the rest of the journey and after one day in the city remarked, "we'd better get out of this mad place as soon as possible". Beside the poverty and squalor seen along the streets, Kolkata is scattered with very fine majestic colonial buildings like the Indian museum at the corner of Sudder St, the Victoria Memorial, etc.

to be continued.....

Updates from Varanasi

2011-11-30T22:03:00.001+08:00

Hi guys,

Its been about 2 weeks since you last heard anything from me and during that time many things had happened both pleasant and unpleasant. First the unpleasant. I am now in Varanasi(2nd day) after leaving on the train from Kolkata "on the sleeper" with my son Aedewan who flew in from K.L with his bicycle. At the railway station in Howrah(Kolkata) I lost my wallet(pick pocketed) just before we boarded the train at 11.50pm (after a delay of 3hrs and 15 minutes) to cut the story short what I lost is just some Thai Bhat and some Chinese Yuan, amounting to about RM50/- what is worse, I also lost 2 ATM cards my I.C my driving licence, insurance card and other cards of lesser importance. Adding to that misfortune, on arrival at Varanasi our 2 bicycles were not unloaded and went on to Lucknow or elsewhere of which the Railway Authorities have no clue. Till today (30th) we still have no news of the bicycles' whereabouts and we'll be at the station again tomorrow to check.

I have informed the 2 banks in Malaysia of the loss of the ATM cards, and luckily I have been told that the cards have not been used, meaning all the money is intact. Aede (my son) has his card but the amount in it is barely enough to take us to Iran. I am now making arrangements to have more money banked into Aede's account for us to use as we proceed along. All is not totally lost.We shall continue as we are not beaten yet.

Below are the updates from Luang Prabang to China.

Leaving Luang Prabang

I left Luang Prabang with a heavy heart because there I met so many nice people and the place is really captivating that cater for so many different needs for the adventurous, for those with religious interest or just relaxing by the Mekong or its tributary at the numerous cafes.

Cycling from Luang Prabang to the border with China is an adventure by itself and the whole journey is one torturous pedalling through forested hilly country that seem endless going up and down. Most of the road surfaces are unpaved and potholed all the way. After 3 days of hard riding my bicycle decided that it had had enough. The rear wheel was slightly warped and that impeded further riding. Luckily it was only 600 meters from Oudomxay. I pushed the bicycle all the way to town but no bicycle shop could mend or replace the wheel. As it was late afternoon the only choice I had was to take the coach from Oudomxay to the border at Botan and on to Kunming, China, arriving in the morning. The irony is, after Oudomxay, the road all the way to the Chinese border is well paved, apparently with aid from the Chinese Government. The coach was a sleeping coach and the bicycle was loaded into the luggage compartment with both the wheels detached.

Leaving Laos was a simple process at immigration post, but on at arriving at the Chinese immigration post all passengers were thoroughly checked. For some unexplained reasons a young Chinese officer(probably trying to impress his seniors) gave me a 100% check. I had a tough time explaining what was in a packet containing washing powder. He probably thought it was some explosive materials. I was the last to board the coach and it was getting dark before we proceeded on. After dark we stopped at the town of Mengla for an hour for dinner. I had the good fortune of having chicken noodles at a Muslim shop with the fresh noodle being made in front of me, the dough being thrown, twisted and pulled through the fingers before the noodles are ready for serving. Much of the journey was through hilly country and from what I recall, we went trough countless number of tunnels both very short and very long and a lot of roadworks are still underway.

The bus(coach) reached the southern bus station in Kunming early in the morning and on leaving the station with my bicycle(limping) ready to ride I was swarmed by hotel and guesthouse operators looking for clients with placards in Chinese characters all trying to persuade visitors who had just arrived. After much persuasion by sign language I agreed to follow one operator while he rode his bicycle to the guesthouse/hotel about 800 meters away. What I didn't know was that the place was just 10km away from where I should be, the city center in Kunming. The place looked like the city itself with skyscrapers and huge crowded shopping malls. I then spent the whole day feeling miserable with no one to talk to as no one spoke any English.

The next day before leaving that part of Kunming I sought out an ATM machine to draw some Chinese Yuan but on trying one machine it failed to dispense any money. I was quite alarmed, thinking that my cards would not work in China. I then managed to go to the Bank of China branch and an officer(a lady) who spoke perfect English explained that not all ATM machines dispense money to foreign card holders. After helping me to draw what I needed she also drew a sketch map to show me the way to my destination in Jinbi Road. She also wrote something in Chinese for me to show people I meet along the way should I need to ask for directions. She proudly told me that most Bank of China staff speak English. How's that.

5km from my destination I stopped to ask for direction and to my pleasant surprise 2 young cyclists who speak English stopped and offered to ride with me to Jinbi Road. The 2 young men are University students who were free for 2 days. They kindly agreed to be my guide in Kunming. The 3 of us stayed in the same room at the Hump Hostel in Kunming and from then on my stay there was a pleasant experience. We visited several places(cycling) around Kunming including the University of Science and Technology where I had the opportunity to interact with some senior gentlemen flying kites in the varsity square I was also taken to Muslim eating places which are numerous in Kunming. We also went to a bicycle emporium where thousands of bicycles of different makes, including imported ones, are for sale. Then we went to a bicycle servicing outlet to try and repair or replace the rear wheel of my bicycle. However I could not find replacement for the wheel because most bicycles in China use the 26" wheels while mine is a 700c wheel. I could still use my bicycle after some adjustments to the spokes had been made and the bicycle is now working with 70% efficiency.
That's all for today and I will post some interesting pictures when it's possible.

LUANG PRABANG

2011-11-14T08:35:00.001+08:00

Hi all,

I am now in Luang Prabang. I left Vientiane on 8th Nov. for Vang Viang and I am glad to be able to blog again. The road from Vientiane is hellish to say the least. The distance to Lg. Prabang is about 400km. I don't have adequate vocabulary to describe the conditions. The first 60km or so is quite flat but horror of horrors the surface is not paved all the way and has potholes in the thousands.Every few hundred meters the surface is unpaved and it is repeated all the way to Vang Vieng, and the dust kicked up by the passing vehicles is unbelievable. Then you have the hills to tackle which is normal for seasoned cyclists, but when you have to avoid the countless number of potholes the difficulty is multiplied many times over.The only consolation is the small number of vehicles plying the route.

With Shi Heng Chong from Singapore

Shi Heng Chong's partner

The bicycle sleeps with me sometimes

Vang Vieng as a perfect place to rest your tired body and the if you have the time and energy, the things you can do here need a few days to enjoy. The place can be compared to Gua Musang in Kelantan with its rugged limestone hills, the difference being, it is more spectacular here. It is a heaven for rock climbing, kayaking, tubing,caving, trekking, etc. Such being the case, most of the visitors here are 'kwai loh' youngsters seeking thrills and adventure. The little town is dusty when dry and muddy after it rains. The main street is not paved and there are no street lights at night. One thing I find interesting is that 80 percent of schoolchildren cycle to school. It is also normal to see cyclists or motorcyclists riding with umbrellas, which is rarely seen on our roads. I spent a night here at a guesthouse by the river and in the morning while having breakfast able to see the kayaks passing by, going under a bamboo bridge across the river, a beautiful sight indeed.

                                               The bamboo bridge by the Guesthouse

It is about 200km from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang and a minimum 2days of hard riding is needed.The road conditions is slightly better than previously described but to give you an idea of the terrain, it is going up and down Cameron Highlands two days in a row. While Luang Prabang is only about 700meters from sea level the route goes up and down endlessly passing several little settlements along the way until finally down to Luang Prabang. Unlike the road to Cameron Highlands, the surrounding hills are mostly devoid of thick jungles, probably extensively logged during the French presence here. And there's not much agricultural activity evident. I only saw four touring cyclists along the way but did not speak with them as they were riding fast downhill as we passed.

                                           A local admirer by the Mekong in Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang is really a beautiful place nestled in a valley with the mighty Mekong flowing through it. The French legacy is obvious in the many buildings that are very beautifully restored and occupied as government offices, hotels, restaurants and guesthouses. There must be hundreds of guesthouses here and some are very basic with bathrooms outside that go for as low as USD4/- a night. Of course there also the 5star outfits.The Mekong waterfront is about 1km long dotted with restaurants, cafes and guesthouses. Many people who planned a day stay here end up spending a week instead. Beside visits to the Wats and museums, the other activities include river cruise, the waterfalls, cycle tour, the elephant sanctuary where you can take a 'mahout' course, cooking course ,etc.,or just laze around drinking beer ,like what many westerners do. The place is cool and ideal for walking without sweating or the heat.

                                                  By the Mekong with a Lao friend

At the same Guesthouse I met Sarah from Canada and she is trying to circle the globe overland, meaning without flying if that is possible.She is giving herself a year to do it and she is also travelling alone. She is here after spending some time in Malaysia and Thailand. She was in KL, Melaka and Cameron Highlands. All my best wishes to her.

                                                 Sarah from Canada is circling the Globe

Food is slightly more expensive here than Vientiane as all the ingredients have to be transported from there. Nasi Bryani that cost Kip25,000 in Vientiane is Kip 28,000 here. I shall try to blog again tomorrow before I leave because after this I am not sure when I can do the same.I am told that I cannot blog in China as it is blocked by the govt. ,and after leaving here I may not have easy excess to the Internet. So, be prepared for a lull for many days. However I can still be reached through SMS that I cannot afford to reply to all , but they are much appreciated. I thank all those who wished me Happy Birthday on the 7th of November. I am now only 69 and not 70 as some people perceived. InsyaAllah I shall survive way beyond 70.

                                                        Orlando from Switzerland

I am not able to take many pictures because of the absence of my camera,but when convenient I use the IPad. Trouble is, I don't take the IPad everywhere I go and it is cumbersome to use it in public. I also don't want to attract too much with attention with it.That's the only valuable thing left with me with all the stored images since I left PJ. Well, maybe some kind soul may want to sponsor another camera? .Wishful thinking .I shall take more pictures and post it in my next blog , but you may have to excuse the awkward positions of the pictures in the blog as I am still struggling with its functions. Taking pictures with the iPad is awkward sometimes, because the images can be upside down when you touch the 'click' button. This is the outcome of guys of my generation who refuse to learn to use the computer . Yes, you don't stop learning till the day you die. God Bless All Of You.

                                                      That takes many years to achieve this

                                              A handsome house in Luang Prabang

                                               A guesthouse at the Mekong riverfront

Building a bamboo bridge on the Nam Khan river

A stunning view - Vang. Vieng

Tourists boarding the boat for the river cruise

Pictures from Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang

2011-11-12T22:44:00.001+08:00

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Pleasant and unpleasant in Vientianne

2011-11-06T15:31:00.000+08:00

I

I can actually stay here for weeks and not get stressed as the city is not crowded nor busy with the traffic of cities like Bangkok or Jakarta. There is only one shopping mall that I know of and it is nowhere as large as Amcorp mall in PJ. The tourist area is close to the Mekong river and the usual bars and cafes that cater for the tourists are no different from those found in Hanoi, Bangkok or Phnom Penh. Most tourists are French and quite a number of Japanese.Prices are rising and rooms in the tourist area has risen since I was here in 08 .

So far I have not met a single Malaysian on the street, I wonder why ? What do Malaysians look for ?

I joined the Muslims for the Hari Raya Korban prayers this morning and most of those present were Indian Muslims with about 10 percent Lao. there is another mosque that is patronised mostly by Indonesians. After prayers, a meal of chicken curry and French bread was served, that I enjoyed thoroughly. A unique thing that I noticed is that after the completion of the prayers those present went about hugging and embracing each other in a brotherly fashion, something I have not seen elsewhere. A. total of about 150 people were present with about a dozen women.

My stay in Vientianne was made pleasant by the kind treatment I got from the Bari family.They are jewellers from Chennai who have been operating here for about 40 years.They not only shared their meals with me, I also used their premises for internet connection, and the food they served made me feel like home.I could never repay their kindness.

Now the unpleasant part.I lost my camera today and the irony is I lost it at the mosque..I shan't go into details of how it got lost but really all is not lost. 95 percent of the pictures taken with the camera are already imported to my IPad. That's really a consolation. That reminds me of my Thai friend, Somchai, who lost his camera in Vietnam and his was by a snatch thief. And worst of all he lost all the pictures taken throughout his journey.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

15.jpg

2011-11-04T17:07:00.000+08:00

Writing fromVientianne

2011-11-04T13:21:00.001+08:00

Hi guys, I am sorry for having you guessing what happened to me for so long ,since I left Bangkok, but the truth is : I was in the rural areas most of the time and without access to the internet.

Unable to move north due to the floods , I joined a group of senior cyclists in Aranyapathet and spent a week cycling (touring ) the eastern parts of rural Thailand ,close to the Mekong and Thai / Cambodia border. What is unique about this tour is that it is organised and led by an engineer ,Mr Jaruke (63) and covers a total of 74 days beginning on the 10 of October 2011.The tour will end somewhere in Chiangmai.

When I joined them, there were 18 people in all, including 3 senior ladies. What is interesting is that these seniors are seasoned cyclists who are well equipped and prepared for the long haul.They are disciplined and independent ,everyone with tent,camping equipment and spares. Some of them start from the beginning to the end while others join the group at their convenience. For example you can join from day 6 and end on day 19 or join at a place of your choice and then cycle back to your home.

Their routine is simple. : up at 4.30 to 5.00 am and leave at 6.00. By 1 or 2pm they are done for the day and would have cycled some 70 to 100 km.There's no briefing or instruction given and they move in groups of two or three. The time I was with them we slept at 3 Wats, 3 National parks and 1 Chinese Association Hall.

The oldest in the group was a 75plus year old man and he is also one of the strongest that I have ever met. So are the rest and I must admit I was never able to keep pace with them on all the days I cycled with them. After a week , I left the group and spent 2 days with one of the cyclists, Mr 'Chop', at his house in Ubon Ratchetsima.I had a wonderful experience with the group in spite of the language problems, that's Thai friendliness for you.

Leaving the group, I made my way to Nong Khai and on reaching Nong Khai I had to leave quickly as the guesthouse owner pointed out to me that my passport showed that I had overstayed for 4 days. At the Thai immigration before crossing the Friendship bridge to Laos I was slapped with a 2,000Baht fine. It was an oversight on my part I must admit. You are only given 1 month for each entry .

Well, from here I should be moving north towards Luang Prabang and eventually Kunming in China, a daunting task, if you should ask. Well, we'll see.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Writing fromVientianne

2011-11-04T12:57:00.001+08:00

Hi guys, I am sorry for having you guessing what happened to me for so long ,since I left Bangkok, but the truth is : I was in the rural areas most of the time and without excess to the internet.

Unable to move north due to the floods , I joined a group of senior cyclists in Aranyapathet and spent a week cycling (touring ) the eastern parts of rural Thailand ,close to the Mekong and Thai / Cambodia border. What is unique about this tour is that it is organised and led by an engineer ,Mr Jaruke (63) and covers a total of 74 days beginning on the 10 of October 2011.The tour will end somewhwre in Chiangmai.

When I joined them, there were 18 people in all including 3 senior ladies. What is interesting is that these seniors are seasoned cycliSts who are well equipped and prepared for the long haul.They are disciplined and independent ,everyone with tent,camping equipment and spares. Some of them start from the beginning to the end while others join the group at their convenience. For example you can join from day 6 and end on day 19 or jion at a place of your choice and then cycle back to your home.

Their routine is simple. : up at 4.30 to 5.00 am and leave at 6.00. By 1 or 2 they are done for the day and would have cycled some 70 to 100 km.There's no briefing or instruction given and they move in groups of two or three. The time I was with them we slept at 3 Wats, 3 National parks and 1 Chinese Association Hall.

The oldest in the group was a 75plus year old man and he is also one of the strongest that I have ever met. So are the rest and I must admit I was never able to keep pace with them on all the days I cycled with them. After a week , I left the group and spent 2 days with one of the cyclists Mr 'Chop' at his house in Ubon Ratchetsima.I had a wonderful experience with the group inspite of the language problems, that's Thai friendliness for you.

Leaving the group, I made my way to Nong Khai and on reaching Nong Khai I had to leave quickly as the guesthouse owner pointed out to me that my passport showed that I had overstayed for 4 days. At the Thai immigration before crossing the Friendship bridge to Laos I was slapped with a 2,000Baht fine. It was an oversight on my part I must admit. You are only given 1 month for each entry .

Well, from here I should be moving north towards Luang Prabang and eventually Kunming in China, a daunting task, if you should ask. Well, we'll see.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Leaving Bangkok

2011-10-21T11:29:00.001+08:00

I am leaving Bangkok today and heading for Aranyapratet on the eastern side of Thailand and then join a group of senior cyclists riding to Nong Khai. I am looking forward as I have been inactive for about a week already. Nothing is certain on a journey like this and sometimes things just fall in place.

After Nong Khai I head to Vientianne and then north to Luang Prabang and if all goes well enter China at Boten and head for Kunming. But then again nothing is certain.

I miss home and all my friends in PJ . You know how to get in touch with me, so let's hear from you too. Cheers and take care.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

2011-10-20T23:01:00.002+08:00

Me and Mike from South Africa at Velo Bicycle outlet in Samsen Rd Bangkok

Staying on in gloomy Bangkok

2011-10-19T18:56:00.001+08:00

Monday, 17 th October 2011

We checked out of the hotel in Samsen Rd ; Din heading back home and for me it will be a few days before I can be sure of what to do. I cannot cycle out to the north as the road leading out is still impassable and I hope I don't have to wait too long. I am lucky to have Somchai who is willing to put me up for a few days till I am able to resume cycling.

I have sent my bicycle to this shop in Samsen to have it serviced and checked so it is not a total waste of time. I may even need to change some parts.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Petchaburi -maybe 2 days to Bangkok

2011-10-13T23:43:00.001+08:00

We left Hua Hin quite late, later and later by the day and it is not helping us gain kilometers. We really must be up early to be able to ride comfortably in the cool. You see, that's what happens when you travel with a partner. If your partner likes to sleep and get up late, you just can't leave him behind.
When I continue from Bangkok I shall be alone and from then I can leave as early or as late as I like.

We also went to the seaside to check out the happenings there and Din decided to take a ride on one of the horses that is provided to visitors on the beach. Hua Hin is a vibrant city with a large foreign community especially from the west. I also noticed that many of the 'white' men are married to local women. Such associations I find very common in Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and to a certain extent in Malaysia and Indonesia.
The other noticeable feature is that these foreign visitors or tourists from the west are mostly middle - aged and 80 percent of them are excessively obese .Many of them find it difficult even to walk short distances. It is very different with the Japanese. Wherever you go you meet Japanese ladies or men young and old very small and petite and neat, trim and proper.My Japanese friend, Nishimura, in PJ will tell you why.

Hua Hin also boasts of luxury hotels like the Hilton , Sofitel, Marriott and others.And to top it all you can hire luxury yachts and sail the seas.

Leaving Hua Hin we had to get back on the same way we came in for more than 20 km before we were back on the highway to Bangkok. In other words we cycled an extra 50 km just to be in Hua Hin but it was well worth it. It rained for some ten minutes along the way but that was no excuse for arriving late in Petchaburi . We reached it at about 7.00 pm local time, which is 8 pm Malaysian time and it was already dark. We somehow managed to find a 'cheap' hotel along the Highway leading to Bangkok. We did not go into town as we were not sure how far it was -we don't want to cycle more than required, at least for today.

To those who are wondering about not seeing pictures in my blog will have to wait a little longer. I promise to post many pictures when I get to Bangkok. And to those who post comments, too, need to wait for me to respond. This 'old man' is still learning how to use this ' new toy.'

Bangkok is still about 200 km away and tomorrow we have about 100 km to ride. Poor me. Cheers to all.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Prachup Khiri Khan to Hua Hin

2011-10-13T16:18:00.003+08:00

Tuesday 11th October 2011

Left Prachup Khiri Khan around 10.00 am and hit the highway towards Hua Hin about 92 km away. It was very hot all the way and we had to make several stops for drinks. It is the hottest day so far and it really drained our energy. 25 km from Hua hin we passed a town that has a structure (building) that is made in the shape of a pineapple. The building must be the biggest replica of the pineapple in the world. It is at least 6 to 7 stories in height and it must be the office of the agricultural dept. We reached Hua Hin around 5pm and called 'Gai' , the sweet Thai lady (girl) who was with the group of Big Bikers in Chumpon. She came to meet me and Din and checked us into a comfortable hotel and also took us out ( in a tuk tuk) to dinner at a muslim eating stall, at a very large area, where there were many eating stalls serving many kinds of food including western fare besides Thai dishes. We had seafood tomyam, kangkong belachan and a chicken dish that were all very tasty but it was very 'hot' because we didn't specify that we prefer a milder version. She paid for everything. Our stay in Hua Hin was sponsored by the Malaysian Big Bikers that we met in Chumpon a few days ago. God bless them. I am indeed grateful.

Hua Hin is quite a big place by the sea and there are lots of tourists and foreigners who have made the place their home. I have not seen much of the place but it is similar to Penang.
Bangkok is still about 250 km away and I really can't say when we will reach it.

Chumpon and northwards

2011-10-11T22:39:00.001+08:00

Sunday 9th October 2011

Going for breakfast to what must be the only muslim restaurant in town we were pleasantly surprised to meet 5 Bikers (motorcycle Big Bikers). 4 of whom were Malaysians going for breakfast to the same place. All were excited to meet at a most unlikely place and to think that that the bikers took only a day or two to reach Chumpon while Din and I took 12 days to reach the same place. They were in Chumpon taking part in some motor show and from the way they were dressed, they looked awsome in their leather outfits. Among them was a lady rider Nor Zaridah (Lady Biker) from Jitra, Kedah. She also has a place in Surrey, England. Then there's Olaf Bartelsen from Norway ; Mohd Said bin Johari from Sungai Udang; Sanglee, a Director of Bike Riders Sdn Bhd; and Azizan Mat who must be the leader of the group. I believe he is a Dato' or Datuk. He is the former Political Secretary to Tan Sri Kadir Sh Fadzir. And best of all the group was in the care of a gsweet young Thai lady Naruemon (Gai) . We all had nasi goreng udang for breakfast and and it goes without saying that Din and I had a free breakfast. Thank you guys for the sweet memories. I hope to be seeing Naruemon (Gai) when I get to Hua Hin where she stays. She's supposed to play host to us, if I am right.

We finally left Chompon at 11.30 by the coastal road as we wanted to experience the rural areas and avoid the highway. While the roads were mostly quiet, the beaches and the sea were beautiful and inviting. We actually travelled more kilometers than intended and failed to reach our intended destination. We made a number of wrong turns and had to backtrack losing precious time and distances. We moved on and ended in Amarit, 6 km away in the opposite direction. Here again we had to stay in a Motel that looked like a garage. Well, at least we had a roof over our head.

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A Rest Day In Chumpon

2011-10-11T21:21:00.001+08:00

Saturday 8th October 2011

Breakfast was at (Tum's) place where his wife Sani Suwansiri also runs a Florist shop. Interestingly the flowers are from Cameron Highlands. Most of the morning, Tum's daughter helped me out with my email and tried to post pictures in my blog. We didn't completely succeed though.

Din who was having a bad toothache the last few days had his tooth pulled out and as it rained in the afternoon we did nothing but rested in the room.

At 4.15 pm Din and I rode to the beach which is about 15km from Chumpon. The beach is very similar to that found in the East Coast of Malaysia and it is a favourite among the locals and some westerners who can spend several days just lazing around. Thailand has such a long coastline and the many beautiful islands around it that it is a favourite among holidaymakers who find them very affordable. We didn't spend too long on the beach as we had to rush back to town for dinner with our friends.

We had a sumptuous dinner hosted by my generous Thai friends and I am indeed indebted to them.

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Chumpon

2011-10-11T18:51:00.001+08:00

We reached Chompon just as it got dark and headed for my friend's house, but unfortunately Somchai had moved to Bangkok. I know Somchai from 2008 when I was in Chumpon on my cycling attempt to Beijing . I however lost contact with him and when I get to Bangkok I hope to see him again. We then went to Wirayuth's (Tum's)place and was really glad to see him, his wife and daughter who is back from Bangkok for the school vacation. Wirayuth and Somchai are cycling friends and so are Anucha and Teerapol .They were In Malaysia cycling last year but unfortunately were unable to get in touch with me. Meeting these nice people again was indeed a happy occasion.There were lots of stories to tell and catching up to do. All Thais have nicknames, eg. Virayuth Suwansiri is Tum, his wife Sani is Ni and his daughter Pikjira is Ai.

Din and I then checked into Suriwong Hotel nearby and after a simple dinner settled in for the night. We plan to stay here for two days.

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Tha Chana to Chumpon

2011-10-09T11:07:00.000+08:00

It was very hot most of the way and we kept to the routine: stopping whenever we felt tired or needed food and refreshments.The km markings along the way seemed to pass ever so slowly as the day wore on, but we persisted and eventually 10 km before Chumpon we found renewed energy and the final 1 km was a real breeze.

I was in Chumpon in 2008 on my cycling attempt to Beijing and I have some friends here .I made a beeline to my friend's (Mr Somchai) House in town but unfortunately he had moved to Bangkok for some work and would only be back at the end of the month. Luckily I also have other friends here and managed to meet some of them before checking in into a hotel. We ehchanged news of things that happened in the 3 years that we were not in contact and would meet again the next day . We decided to stay in Chumpom for two nights before moving on as we really need to recover, especially physically.

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Tha Chana to Chumpon

2011-10-09T00:12:00.001+08:00

We left Baan Suan Lee Homestay around 10am with a heavy heart because we were so comfortable and well taken care of by Pongsiri and her helpers who made us feel so at home. Even her mother who lived across the road came over to bid us safe journey. She even gave us some 'dokong' fruit picked from her tree for us to take along.After a breakfast of toast, omelette and coffee we left for Chumpon. We had about 115km to ride and we knew it was going to be a hard day.

It was very hot most of the way and we kept to the routine: stopping whenever we felt tired or needed food and refreshments.The km markings along the way seemed to pass ever so slowly as the day wore on, but we persisted and eventually 10 km before Chumpon we found renewed energy and the final 1 km was a real breeze.

I was in Chumpon in 2008 on my cycling attempt to Beijing and I have some friends here .I made a beeline to my friend, Mr Somchai's house in town but unfortunately he had moved to Bangkok for some work and would only be back at the end of the month. Luckily I also have other friends here and managed to meet some of them before checking into a hotel. We exchanged news of things that happened in the 3 years that we were not in contact and would meet again the next day . We decided to stay in Chumpon for two nights before moving on as we really need to recover, especially physically.

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Surat Thani to Tha Chana

2011-10-08T00:25:00.001+08:00

WE left Surat Thani around 11am not quite sure where our next stop would be. We just continued cycling by watching the highway signs and on some occasions had to ask the the locals to make sure we were on the right route. Whenever we felt tired or needed a rest we always look out for the 711 store sign that are also at the petrol stations. There you have the toilets, 711 store, eating stalls and rest areas. On some occasions when the weather looked like it was going to rain, we had to make adjustments to our panniers to make sure it would not get wet if it rained. The petrol stations/711 stores are around 10 or 15 km apart ,so you don't need to worry about going hungry and going without food or drink.

I had my second puncture on this journey some 50 km after leaving Surat Thani and instead of patching up the tube I used a new spare tube that I bought in Hatyai. I would patch up the punctured tube when I stop for the night.

When it was getting late and we were not sure of our stop for the night, we saw a sign that says 'Homestay Resort' 10km. ,and true enough we found the place just as it was getting dark. The place is about 10km from Tha Chana and it is run by a lady ,Pongsiri, a mathematics teacher who just retired a few months ago. The place is a very nice bungalow with two rooms upstairs and a room downstairs. She has two helpers who keep the place spick and span. She serves very good food but be sure to indicate your preference ,or you'd get very hot and spicy dishes that can see steam coming out of your head.

If you are at her place during the fruit season there would be plenty enjoy, like durians, mangosteen dokong ,'chempedak' and others. She also plants her own vegetables without useing insecticide or chemical fertilizers. In other words it is organic by nature.

Travellers passing the area should check out the place, you certainly won't regret it.

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Surat Thani to Tha Chana

2011-10-07T23:51:00.001+08:00

WE left Surat Thani around 11am not quite sure where our next stop would be. We just continued cycling by watching the highway signs and on some occasions had to ask the the locals to make sure we were on the right route. Whenever we felt tired or needed a rest we always look out for the 711 store sign that are also at the petrol stations. There you have the toilets, 711 store, eating stalls and rest areas. On some occasions when the weather looked like it was going to rain, we had to make adjustments to our panniers to make sure it would not get wet if it rained. The petrol stations/711 stores are around 10 or 15 km apart ,so you don't need to worry about going hungry and going without food or drink.

When it was getting late and we were not sure of our stop for the night, we saw a sign that says 'Homestay Resort' 10km. ,and true enough we found the place just as it was getting dark. The place is about 10km from Tha Chana and it is run by a lady ,Pongsiri, a mathematics teacher who just retired a few months ago. The place is a very nice bungalow with two rooms upstairs and a room downstairs. She has two helpers who keep the place spick and span. She serves very good food but be sure to indicate your preference ,or you'd get very hot and spicy dishes that can see steam coming out of your head.

If you are at her place during the fruit season there would be plenty enjoy, like durians, mangosteen dokong ,'chempedak' and others. She also plants her own wegetables without useing insecticide or chemical fertilizers. In other words it is organic by nature.

Travellers passing the area should check out the place, you certainly won't regret it.

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Thung Song and Northwards

2011-10-05T23:31:00.001+08:00

Tuesday 4th October 2011

Thung Song: Breakfast at Shareef Restaurant (a muslim restaurant run by ladies). Owned by Chalor Srisuksai, tel:075-420442 mobile:089-4741754. Food suits most Malaysians though 'chilli' hot with most dishes. It may seem strange to us but even for breakfast iced water is served alongside your order. Seldom do you see Thais having coffee or tea.

We left Thung Song around 10.30 and headed for Ban Na San a town about 100km away and about 60 km to Surat Thani. After about1 hour of riding we stopped for a drink at a roadside stall and without any warning the sky opened up and it started to rain heavily. We could do nothing but to wait out till the rain stopped. Unfortunately the rains persisted and although it was very light it continued for about three and a half hours. We continued cycling after the rain stopped, for about three hours, when it started to get dark. We managed to find a motel in the middle of some obscure rubber holdings. From the outside the Motel looked more like a row of garage for trucks but on a closer look what looked like the back wall of the garage, a door opens to a room complete with TV and air-conditioning,a toilet, and to top it all a condom is available on the bedside table,' he he'. Once checked in a blind is pulled down to hide whoever or what vehicle is parked there. Apparently the place is just right for those who want to get 'lost' for a while.

WE were charged 300 baht for it, but when leaving the place in the morning, the sign outside says 250 for air-con and 150 for fan. Suckers.

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Patthlung to Thung Song

2011-10-04T10:13:00.001+08:00

Monday 3rd October2011

Patthlung: Out to town looking for breakfast when approached by a man on motorcycle. Recognising us as foreign cyclists,Slipcahai Paichit(59) helped to take us to a muslim eating place. Slipachai is a trader selling plastic bags for food and he is also an avid cyclist owning a mountain bike and a touring bike. Joining us for breakfast and a chat, he belongs to a local cycling club and in November 60 of its members will travel in 7 trucks to Chiang Mai with their bicycles and then cycle all the way down to Songkhla. The journey will take 10 days and it is part of the King's birthday celebration. Slipachai has a son and two daughters and five grandchildren.

We left Patthalung around 10am for Thung Song ang once on the highway its back to the familiar conditions: almost straight and flat except for hill 23 km from Thung Song, not quite 'Bukit Berapit' but tough enough for someone who had cycled for 8 days.

No incidents with the bikes but made several 'rest' stops and twice due to rain. At one stop for a drink I spoke to one sweet young lady manning the sundry shop adjoining a dress and a hair saloon. She runs all the three operations all by herself. She also takes care of her two children one boy (3) and a girl (1). It is really admirable for one so young (24) playing so many roles. Her husband is a sales personnel working in Bangkok.

We finally reached Thung Song around 6.30pm and managed to find a hotel.It was difficult finding halal food so we ended up with 'murtabak'. I had an early night as the body just shuts down. No fixed destination tomorrow. We'll just have to keep pedalling.

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Hatyai to Patthalung

2011-10-03T11:15:00.001+08:00

Left Hatyai at 9am local time and getting out of town was quite slow with heavy traffic and having to go through the several traffic lights at several junctions before you get on to the highway. Once on the highway all went smoothly.

Being a Sunday most places along the way were closed except for a few family-run 'coffee shops' and noodle stalls. Again the route was almost straight with a wide m/cycle and bicycle lane and no toll booths anywhere.

'Din' had another (4th) puncture at km 55 about halfway to Patthalung.We were lucky that it happened near a family-run warung so we managed to patch the puncture (a basin of water was provided by the lady manning the 'warung ' to detect the hole without much problem. We now consider ourselves 'experts' mending punctures.

From km54 to km51 we passed no less than 50 stalls selling pineapple fruits. Heaps of pineapples and whole fruits cut in half are displayed at all the stalls. Each fruit sells for 100 Bhat each. This must be a pineapple growing region. Interestingly all the stalls are manned by ladies. I wonder why.

We reached Patthalung around 5 p.m and managed to find a hotel run by a husband and wife team. Again hearing of my arduous journey, we were given a small discount. The place doesn't have much to offer tourists but the area surrounding it boasts of a captivating inland lake and a heaven for birdwatching. We are not rushing and tomorrow we head to Thung Son.

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In Prachup Khiri Khan.

2011-10-02T00:02:00.000+08:00

Tuesday 11th Octiber 2011

Left Motel (19 km from Thap Saphe) at around 9.30 am and as we were back on the highway all were quite straightforward. We were again delayed for one hour due to the rain and after that,having cycled for about 70 km we reached the beautiful seaside town of Prachap Khiri Khan. Through the Tourist Information Centre we were guided to a very pleasant hotel by the beach (with a beautiful view of the bay). We were on the 4th floor and you have to be here to really enjoy the scenery.

Although we reached here early (around 3.30 pm) I was too tired to explore the places featured in the golssy tourist brochures. Anyway I also had a bit of washing do.

The seafront is quite similar to what we have in the the Esplanade and Padang Kota (Elizabeth Walk) in Penang.. There is also a lookout point on a small hill nearby that gives a panoramic view of the bay.

Dinner was some tomyam and seafood by the beach stalls and then to bed.Tomorrow to Hua Hin. Goodnite.

Across the Border

2011-10-01T23:52:00.003+08:00

Friday30 Sept 2011
After b'fast at the Hotel in Changlun, we started at 9am with a photo shoot by a Cycling Asia photographer beginning with my preparation before cycling until I started cycling the stretch right up to the border complex at Bukit Kayu Hitam. We only parted ways when I cleared Thai Immigration and cycled on.

As it was almost noon, we had an early lunch at Danok on the Thai side. You get the same kind of fare as in Malaysia and you can even pay in Malaysian ringgit. The only setback is The Ringgit is now weaker than the Thai Bhat as compared to three months ago.

The route to Hatyai from Danok is about 60 km,almost straight all the way,
and the gentle undulating terrain all the way can be quite boring and monotonous. The plus side is, roads in Thailand have lanes for motorcycles and bicycles and most drivers are courteous towards cyclists. Like Malaysia, roads in Thailand have improved a great deal over the last 30 odd years but unlike Malaysia Thais don't pay as much toll as we do. But they pay a much higher price for petrol.
We reached Hatyai at 4.30pm and many tour buses from Malaysia are seen all
over town and especially at the usual hotels frequented by Malaysians like the Lee Gardens Hotels. We may not cycle tomorrow as our systems really need a rest.

Changlun

2011-10-01T23:49:00.000+08:00

Thursday 29th Sept. 2011
We left 'My Hotel' at 8.30 am with a light breakfast and after 6 km passed the town of Sungai Petani. The town has developed quite a bit over the years and a huge shopping complex sits right in the centre of town. The old familiar clock tower still stands majestically on its main street. The route to Alor Star is also quite pleasant except for the scorching heat from the sun.

While taking a break at a bus stop( shelter) after Gurun, I stopped a young cyclist (Ng See Chun,24) from KL also cycling to Alor Star.The young man has quit his job to go cycling around Malaysia. While his father is very much against it, his mother who is also an active Hasher and trekker is very supportive of his ideas. he also has an aunt in Melaka who has gone backpacking almost around the world. He has also met another cyclist who also quit his job to go cycling for several months. The guy ended up marrying a girl from a far away place from home. You can check these to at: Facebook: seejun@hotmail.com and www.zahariz.wordpress.com.We had lunch at Alor Star after which we parted ways.
After Alor Star we continued to Jitra and while the distance travelled was not that far the journey seemed endless. We pushed on until we reached Changlun. Given a choice I would rather cycle on a winding road than a straight one because on a straight road you can see for many kilometers without seeing your destination.
I stopped at the Jitra Police Station hoping to see some of the police personnels who rode with me to the border during my ride in 2008 but to my disappointment none of them are still serving in Jitra. Some have been promoted and posted to a new place.No more active cyclists in the police force in Jitra. What a shame.
We found a hotel 'T Hotel' right across the police station to stay the night.

Tomorrow we ride to Bukit Kayu Hitam and cross over to Thailand.

Simpang - Changlun

2011-09-29T23:54:00.000+08:00

28th Wednesday, September 2011.

    Left the hotel at Simpang ( Taiping ) at 8.00 a.m and stopped for breakfast 5 kms later.The road is almost straight for most of the way from Simpang to Butterworth. As usual I find the road signs very confusing and on several occasions we took the wrong way, trying to avoid the highway and ending up going a longer route.

      I have travelled the route countless times and on reaching Kampung Kedah ( 2.5 km ) Parit Buntar I always stop at the 'Masjid Hijau' graveyard where my late mother, father, uncle and other family members are buried, to say some prayers.

       The plan was to reach Sg. Petani but as the hot sun sapped most of our energy, we had to stop for the night, some 8 km from Sg Petani. Alor Star is only about 60 km from here, so we will surely go beyond to Jitra or even Changlun.

SIMPANG - TAIPING

2011-09-29T22:43:00.000+08:00

Tuesday 27th September 2011

Left B.G at 8.30 a.m, again with an overcast sky, by-passing Ipoh. The road through Menglembu to Jelapang and then Chemor is quite pleasant really, with a wide lane for cyclists, and the road after Sg. Siput has improved a great deal partly due to the KTMB's double tracking development. I made a stop at my old school ( Clifford School, Kuala Kangsar) which I left in 1960. I made a call to the school earlier informing the Head of my intention, and to my surpise, I was greeted by a group of students, who are cycling enthusiasts. I was also treated to some ' Raya ' goodies.

The school now has 1800 pupils as opposed to 600 during my time. After Kuala

Kangsar you need to tackle 'Bukit Berapit' before you get to Taiping. It would not be much of a problem on a road bike but with a heavy load on a touring bike you are stretched to the limits. On the positive side, once you reach the top, its a roller coaster ride for some kilometres down. Pray that the bike behaves or you'll go flying. We found a hotel at Simpang and decided to stay there instead of going into Taiping town. Tomorrow we'll continue our journey to Butterworth and maybe on to Sungai Petani.

FREE LODGING

2011-09-29T22:14:00.000+08:00

Monday 26th Sept 2011

       Left Tg. Malim at 8.45 on an overcast morning, without breakfast, cycling on an old trunk road which is almost straight, right up to Slim River, but there is no lane for motorcyclist or bicyclist. The white line alongside the road is only about 6 inches from the grass verge. Vehicles coming from behind really get close to you and when heavy vehicles pass by at high speed, the resulting draft really shakes you violently . A small mistake can spell disaster. However, many stretches thereafter have a lane at least 5 feet or more for cyclist or pedestrians .

        We had breakfast just before reaching Slim River, after which the sun shone brightly. Din, my riding partner had a puncture, delaying us for half an hour. Six kilometres from Tapah it began to rain and we were further delayed . We finally reached Tapah around 3.30 p.m. The rain got heavy for another hour. We finally left Tapah in a light drizzle around 5.30 p.m.and reached Batu Gajah at around 8.30 p.m. We spent the night in Batu Gajah, in my brother-in-law's house. Thank you Kong and family, for putting us up.

MY JOURNEY BEGINS.

2011-09-29T19:34:00.001+08:00

Sunday 25th September 2011

Location : Taman Jaya, PJ

Some 40 people comprising friends, supporters, family members and the media were present to bid farewell and wish me success in my latest pursuit - cycling to London.

Among those present were Datuk Johan Jaaffar, who's been supportive in all my 'crazy' attempts, Dato Gen.( rtd) L.C Soon, with whom, I share many interesting adventures over the last 15 years and whose passion for outdoor adventures have not diminish in spite of advancing age.

Especially meaningful were the presence of three of my

former students from RMC who came to ride for part of the way: Azly (the 'Bandit') who also rode with me at the start of my journey in 2008), Kam Kasturi who is a regular participant in multiple sports and Kamarul Azhar who at 43 has 4 children whose eldest son is already in University. It seems like yesterday when I last saw him in Form 5, in RMC, more than 20 years ago. Kamarul rode with me up to Rawang with Tajul, his friend Zul and my son Aedewan and of course Rezzuddin who is riding with me up to Bangkok. Azly and Kam rode up to Dataran Merdeka before going their own way.

It is impossible to mention all of you by name here, but thank you all very much for your presence and support. And to top it all, Tan Sri Musa Hassan recited the 'doa selamat'at the gathering. I am indeed greatly honoured. Thank you, Sir.

Here I must also thank the people who made this journey possible with their support in cash or kind, Datuk Johan Jaaffar(who also hosted a farewell buffet dinner for me at his residence),Mr Francis Yew, my former student from SM Sri Garing, Rawang, Dr Amir Lee, my former housemate in Brinsford lodge Tuan Hj Goh Eng Chye, my Japanese friend Mr Nishimura, my nephew Syed Rizal, my sister Datin Norlia and her husband Datuk Syed Abdul Rahman, my eldest sister Hajah Nor Aminah, my former housemate Oh Boo Seck, all my family members and all my friends from Kawasan Melayu, too many names to mention. God bless you all.

We had 3 punctures along the way and the rain in the afternoon hindered our progress. We had to put up in Tanjung Malim as it was already dark. I must apologize for not updating earlier as there was no internet connection where I had stayed for the last few days.

Official send off pictures

2011-09-28T00:32:00.001+08:00

With my Ex-RMC boys

Hill climb near Selayang

Having lunch at Rawang commuter station

Last picture before the convoy splits up

My appearance on MHI

2011-09-22T21:50:00.000+08:00

Sojourn At an Orang Asli Village (Kampung Perjek)

2011-09-19T13:24:00.001+08:00

Last weekend I took a trip to the interior of Perak to visit an orang asli village,Kuala Mu, which I have been making regular visits over the last 20 years. The village is at the foot of the Main Range ( Banjaran Titiwangsa ) some 50 kilometers from Lasah near Sungai Siput.

8, 4x4 vehicles with 28 people left KL in the morning heading north to Sg.Siput where we had an early lunch and after checking to make sure that all is in order we left for Lasah and then on to the off-road trail leading to Kuala Mu.

We passed several villages along the way notably Kg Santes, Kg Perjek and Pos Legap. From here on the trail became tougher due to erosion and. usage by heavy vehicles. It had rained earlier in the day that made the trail very muddy and slippery.As only two out of the eight vehicles were fitted with off-road accessories like winches, mud tyres shackles and snatch straps, the other vehicles had a tough time negotiating the rough patches.After several attempts at the difficult that took too long to clear and not knowing the trail conditions ahead we decided to abort the trip to Kuala Mu. It was also getting late and Kuala Mu is still some 15 kilometers away.That distance can take 2 hours or more if you manage to get through at all and as daylight was fast fading we decided to go back the same way we came.

We reached Kg Perjek which we had passed earlier and as it was getting dark we decided to camp the night there, with the permission of the Penghulu (Tok Batin) of course.
Dinner was quickly prepared by the efficient ladies and it was shared with most of the villagers.

The night ended with the Sewang , the orang asli traditional song and dance. Everyone participated and enjoyed in the merrymaking especially the two French couples that came along. It was almost midnight before we got to sleep.We slept at the the community hall where the'Sewang' was held.It was indeed a unique experience for the French couples.

The next morning breakfast was prepared and again it was shared with the villagers. After breakfast Dr Lee gave free medical examination and consultation to those in need and dispensed the necessary medication required. It is normal for Dr Lee to provide such services whenever he visits the orang asli villages in the interior. Well done Doc.

At the same time we also distributed food and clothes that we brought along that was originally intended for Kuala Mu. For some it was entirely a new experience that will be remembered for a long time.

As for me I shall continue with my visits to these charming places whenever possible.

Sewang

Dr Lee serving dinner to the villagers

Sleeping quarters for travellers

The French Connection

Dr Lee distributing goodies to the kids

Dr Lee providing free medical examination/consultation and dispensing medicine

Thank you Tok Batin for providing accomodation

The unkempt surau

The cleanest and neatest place in the village, the kindergarten

Puan Rosnah bt Busu, the hardworking assistant teacher

Distributing food stuff

Symbolic Flag Off at Sri Pentas

2011-09-15T12:39:00.000+08:00

I appeared on the MHI this morning interviewed by a beautiful hostess and a dashing young man and I must say that Media Prima do have a dynamic young set of personalities. No wonder it is the No 1 TV station, and they even have a cycling club to go with it. After the interview I was officially flagged off by En Shariman, a GM in Media Prima accompanied by some 20 cyclists. My actual departure date is on the 25th Sept. The details of which will be made known when the final decision is made. At least one cyclist will be riding with me up to Hatyai or even Bangkok to keep me company. Along the way, anyone interested to join is welcome. That's all for now. Take care.

Training in progress

2011-09-11T00:14:00.001+08:00

Getting used to the weight which is around 30kg.

Ready to ride

2011-09-11T00:06:00.001+08:00

On Thursday the 8th there was a press conference at UFL(Universal Fitness & Leisure) attended by members from Malaysia Aids Foundation represented by Datuk Maznah Jalil, the treasurer of MAF, Datuk Hj Naim the Deputy president of the Malaysian Cycling Federation, Dato Radha Krishnan, Managing Director of UFL and Datuk Malik Noor, Executive Director of UFL, me and members of the print media. During the function Dato Radha Krishnan presented a donation to the MAF. Coleman, Deuter and Suunto products were presented to me. It is indeed commendable for UFL to come forward to the aid of HIV positive sufferers and to support me in my attempt. A big thank you to UFL . Dato Krishnan also made a personal cash contribution on top of the company's products. At the same function, Datuk Naim also offered me tickets to the Olympic cycling events. That is indeed greatly appreciated. Thank You Datuk. Many are still asking when is my actual date of departure. It is on the 25th of September. I expect at least one person to ride along with me right up to the Thai border. I welcome other cyclist/s to join me even for just a few kilometers. That's all for now.

The countdown begins

2011-09-06T08:00:00.000+08:00

Hi,
Selamat Hari Raya, Maaf Zahir dan Batin to all my muslim friends and to the others I hope you also joined in the festivities and enjoyed the long break - just don't over indulge with the lemang , rendang and the cookies served. The open houses will go on till the end of the month ,so don't pile on the kilos. The Merdeka celebrations are also under way and let's hope the country will continue to enjoy peace and prosperity.
I have less than 20 days before starting my ride and i am quite excited about it. Preparation wise I am about ready except for a few items that need to be sorted out. There's going to be a Press Conference at UFL on Thursday 8th and there's to be cheque and product presentations by UFL to me and also to Malaysian Aids Foundation. It is indeed admirable for UFL to support my effort and at the same time contribute much needed funds to MAF. I hope more companies and individuals would come forward to do the same.

An Interesting Bicycle Story

2011-08-24T20:23:00.006+08:00

How the Japanese defeated the British in Malaya during the 2nd World War.

Here's an extract from Colonel Masanobu Tsuji's : Japan's Greatest Victory, Britain's Worst Defeat.(1977).

While progressive Chinese were jabbing their elders with the idea of the bicycle, other Asian countries were well on the way to widespread adoption of the machine for mundane utilitarian purposes. Largely this was due to the surging Japanese bicycle industry, which had exported a staggering number of cheap, well-built bicycles to neighboring countries in the decade prior to World War II.

After Colonel Masanobu Tsuji scouted Malaya in 1941 to plan the Japanese invasion of the peninsula, he decided he would put his troops on bicycles on the long attack south to Singapore. Tsuji later wrote that two divisions had been out-fitted with six thousand bicycles each prior to the invasion, but many other sources say that the Japanese simply commandeered their bicycles from Malays upon arrival. There were plenty to go around.

Troops landed on Malaya about eighty minutes after the Zeroes swept into Pearl Harbor. Accompanied by tanks and trucks filled with their big guns ad heavy equipment, Tsuji's invaders extracted full advantage from Japan-built bicycles and the Brit's paved plantation roads, rolling about six hundred miles to Singapore. This was no ordinary charity ride. The bicycle troops stabbed into enemy territory, using secondary tracks to encircle allied forces mired in their armored columns on the main road--stuck in a traffic jam, essentially, where the armor was a fat target for airplanes and big guns. Motors in flames, the British soldiers were forced to hoof it, and were quickly overtaken by troops on two-wheelers. When the allies blew the bridges, the Japanese waded across with their bikes and kept rolling. "With the infantry on bicycles," Tsuji explained, "there was no traffic congestion or delay." Tsuji claimed that a conventional campaign without bicycles would have taken over a year. The British defenses were wiped out in seventy days.

Allied soldiers who were hiding along the route watched orderly columns of hundreds of Japanese soldiers pedaling by and happily talking among themselves as if headed to a picnic. These guys were in high spirits, at least at first. With extremely long days on the road, hauling sixty to eighty pounds of gear under their seats, pausing frequently for combat and chasing Englishmen into the jungle on foot, the rolling infantry started to feel the burn. Upon arrival at Singapore they were a hungry saddle-weary bunch, but captured what was supposedly an impregnable fortress easily enough despite their saddle sores.

The British seemed shocked. They hadn't expected to be blitzkrieged by bicyclists. Decades later they still seemed shocked, and embarrassed. It was a particularly humiliating way to get skunked- to have this old British invention, viewed as a child's toy by many Englishmen in 1941, turned against them in such devastating fashion. Even without the bicycles the loss of Singapore would have been the most humiliating military defeat the British have ever suffered. That the Japanese had achieved this victory via bicycle was beyond the pale. Most British histories of the campaign preferred not to mentions Tsuji's two-wheeled stratagem at all. Instead they dwelled on the Japanese use of tanks. Some big, bad tanks those were. Grrrr.

Cycling Facts

In Copenhagen, Denmark 36% of all citizens commute to work, school or university by bicycle.

Most bike commuters report losing 15 to 20 lbs during their first year in the saddle without changing their eating habits.

Bicycles use 2% as much energy as cars per kilometer - passenger, and cost less than 3% as much to purchase.

Bicycles in China outnumber cars 250 - 1.

100 bicycles can be produced for the same energy and resources it takes to build one-medium size automobile.

You can reduce the risk of disease or stroke by 50% just by cycling 3 hours a week.

Marathon Des Sables 2009 (Pictures)

2011-08-20T23:43:00.010+08:00

With the French Medical Officers

With British participants

Dining tents after the end of the race

Feet swelling up due to the heat

Lost all toe nails within 3 months after the marathon

Road To London - The Hard Way

2011-08-19T22:02:00.003+08:00

I am now in the midst of my final preparation for my biggest challenge to date - to cycle to London for the 2012 Olympics. Yes, while I failed to get to Beijing in 2008 I hope I can make it this time around though the distance is about twice as long. To give you a clearer picture, the distance is anything between 17,000km to 20,000km, through the northern half of peninsula Malaysia, northwards through Thailand, Laos and then Kunming in China. From Kunming, I hope to find a way to Dhaka in Bangladesh. ( It would be shorter to go through Myanmar but overland travel is not allowed there except by public transport).Next, Kolkata , then westward through India passing by Varanasi, Agra and Delhi on highway 1, then on highway 2 to Atari and across the border to Lahore in Pakistan, followed by Iran, Greece, Turkey, countries of the former Yugoslavia, Austria, Germany, France/Holland and finally London. I intend to start the journey on the 24nd or the 25th Of September and InsyaAllah all will be fine.

While cycling (the bicycle is the most efficient vehicle ever invented) there are still costs to bear: cost of bicycle and fittings and spares and other necessities and of course food and lodging. While costs in Asia are reasonably cheap, once in Europe the costs can be prohibitively high. It is estimated that the total cost of my journey to be about RM40,000. I am happy to say that to date, my requests for sponsorship have been positive from Media Prima (TV3; UFL(Universal Fitness And Leisure) Guinness Malta and Canon Marketing. I an also proud to say that my former students from S.M. Seri Garing,Rawang headed by Mr Francis Yew are giving me a generous cash sponsorship. I am still waiting for responses from other Sponsors and I am confident my target will be met before my departure.
Besides cash, I hope to get sponsors for the following : digital SLR camera/video camera, cycling equipment and spares, energy supplements, 2 airline tickets from London to KL(after the completion of the journey) and other things that can help lessen the burden and make my journey easier.Where accommodation is not available, I am well equipped to camp along the way but I hope that will not be the norm.

While I consider myself very lucky to be in this physical state to be able to undertake this daunting challenge, there are many Malaysians who are less fortunate and are in constant need of medical treatment, but far from being able to afford the high cost of treatment.

In this respect, I'm collaborating with the Malaysian Aids Foundation, to collect funds for the Foundation. Your donation will go a long way in making a difference to the lives of Malaysians who are infected and affected by HIV. It must be emphasised that most of those infected are innocent women and young children, through no fault of their own. It is my hope, that my humble effort in this arduous journey, will inspire fellow Malaysians to make a donation. Your donation, however small, will be appreciated as it can make a difference to the lives of the people who are in need of help. Donation can made through the Foundation's Maybank Account- 514105421257.

You can also call me at +60126369227 or read my blog at www.oadnanxtreme.blogspot.com. I'd certainly appreciate your comments. Expect some pictures in my next post.

The Adventure Continues

2011-08-16T01:42:00.010+08:00

I did the most unexpected thing during the 2010 Chinese New Year break by joining a group of Sai Baba ( Swami died on 24 April 2011) followers to Puttaparthi in Andhra Pradesh, India. We spent a week in the commune and while there I joined the congregation and observed the rituals. It is interesting to note that the followers comprise people from all over the world including many Europeans and people from countries from the former Soviet Union. On the two occasions when I attended the 'darshan' where devotees chanted prayers, Swami appeared, to bless the congregation. I am considered lucky by many because some people were not able to see Swami during 'darshan' because on many occasions he did not appear. While Sai Baba is said to have performed miracles, what is apparent is the tremendous development that is taking place in that area that was once (half a century ago) practically barren. Now the area boasts state of the art specialist hospital, schools, universities providing free access to the community. The success of the development of extensive network of water supply to the region especially for the poor, is an achievement that even the Indian government could not match.
One noticeable feature of the commune is the sense of peace and tranquility displayed by all present even though they are from different stratas of society (remember the caste system is still very much alive in India). After leaving Puttaparthi I stayed in Bangalore and toured the city. I also toured Mysore where there are some of the finest palaces in India.
Since my last KL marathon (16th) in 2009 the worst ever organized KL marathon I stopped participating in all organized runs simply because I feel that people like me who are nearing 70 and those seniors who are over 70 should not be made to pay to participate in the runs.We should at least be given a discount. Imagine us running with all the youngsters who could be our grandchildren and beating many of them. I know many seniors in their 70s who have been running for more than 30 years and are still active . They are an inspiration to the others. They should be given special privileges.
My fitness routine however has not changed much . I still run/jog; cycle; trekking and other outdoor activities. My routine usually involves endurance training,jogging 8 to 12 km or strength training involving push-ups, pull-ups and sit-ups. I am happy to say that I can still manage to handle 100 push-ups, 30 pull-ups and 300 sit-ups in a single day's workout. Since March 2011 I train twice a day to improve my endurance.
It may surprise many who have known me , to know that in early July 2011 I traveled to Saudi Arabia to perform the Umrah. While I have been known to be not a religious person, I found the journey to have a profound effect on me in a spiritual sense that I never thought possible. I made the journey together with my elder sister Noorain and her husband Shahrin, my younger sisters Datin Noorlia and Noor Nahar, and a niece Noorita.Needless to say,I wasn't well prepared for it but I now know that I need to be better prepared to take the same journey again in the future InsyaAllah.. I shall dwell on the subject and my experience in the Holy Land as I continue writing the blog as we go along.

Welcome back

2011-08-15T01:29:00.007+08:00

Hi Guys,

First of all I must apologize for being totally silent for some 3 years since my last posting. I have no excuses really but simply put I am just not in the groove with this internet thing. I suppose I really cannot ignore the advancement in global communications. Well from now I'll try to keep abreast. I have not been inactive though during the state of my silence. After lots of persuasion I shall now share my experiences especially those that involve travel and adventure.
After my failure to enter China during my cycling attempt in 08, I toured Vietnam for 2 weeks, traveling all the way down from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh city (Saigon) in the south. Vietnam has lots of interesting places for tourists and even those seeking adventure.
From Ho Chi Minh city I continued my journey to Phnom Penh in Cambodia, and like Vietnam it too has many interesting places connected to atrocities committed during the Pol Pot regime of the seventies. Cambodia offers a variety of destinations for cyclist especially the rural areas where motorized traffic do not pose much problems. Cycling tours are gaining popularity. After a week, I came back home, tired but ready for more adventures. On the first Sunday in December I ran my slowest marathon in the Singapore Standard Charted edition but as usual, I always enjoy the run there.
In 09 I undertook another challenge, participating in the Marathon des Sables in the Sahara desert of Morocco dubbed the toughest footrace in the world. I had the good fortune of being sponsored by Sime Darby for the race, but again I was taken off the race some 12km from the finish line, failing to meet the cut- off time. For the uninitiated, the race is over 6 days covering a distance of some 240km over unforgiving sand dunes, barren rocky grounds with temperatures in the mid 40's during the day and very cold temperatures in the night. except for water distributed at designated check points, each runner is required to lug his own food & clothing, and other safety equipment for the duration of the race. Needless to say some runners are eliminated even on the first day. While the race is considered torturous, I'd do it again given another chance.
Also in 09 I spent a week backpacking in the Central Highlands of the Philippines (Baguio) for a week.

How my journey began

2008-08-13T00:48:00.009+08:00

Leaving St. John's HQ in Ipoh

In Front of my old school (Clifford K.K.)

At Taiping St John HQ

Addressing St John Members in Taiping

With St John members in Penang

With St John members leaving Alor Star

At the border of Thailand

On my own in Thailand

Home and already getting restless

2008-08-05T23:40:00.004+08:00

Hi Guys
Sorry for the silence for quite a while but I had to take stock of what the 2 months had done to my physical as well my mental state before going on to something new. Since I came back I managed to catch up on the local news reading some of the back issues of the papers and talking to friends who are eager to listen to my stories. For me , I am quite surprised to know that the political scene hasn't changed much. The political parties are still at each others' throats instead of getting on with administering the the country as they promised in their election campaign.

After coming back from Cambodia and having visited the 'killing fields' and the Toul Sleng Genocide museum, I am disgusted to read about Tony Blair's coming here to give a lecture on 'The rule of law and good governence'. I can't help but to agree with Tun Mahatir who termed Blair as a war criminal. The 'war' in Iraq has killed more than a million people and everyday Iraqies continue to die, for what ? It took 12 years to finally arrest Radovan Karadzic and he will soon be tried as a war criminal, while here Blair and his friend Bush are walking free and talking about democracy and human rights. And what's wrong with University Malaya?. Grrrr!!

And then you have this guy who claimed to have been sodomised by Anwar. Do you have to wait until you find difficulty to 'pang sai' after several days before you make a police report? I am no supporter of Anwar but think of other ways if you don't like him. Well, Malaysia Boleh.

After staying idle for a week, I went back to my exercise routine yesterday and I must say that I am happy to be able to enjoy doing it. While going out I spoke to a petite young girl in my neighbourhood whom I have seen jogging and working out several times before. To my surprise, she tells me that she is training for the World Wushu competition in China in October. Wow.
She is a student in UTAR .

I am now in he process of viewing all the shots I took during my adventure and hope to be able to share them with you soon. I need to get one of my sons to help me to post it on the blog. I have yet to learn how to do it . All in I took about 2,000 shots but only about 60% are ok. When my first camera' kaput' and I bought a new one, I did not set the camera to the correct settings, so many of the shots are not of the desired quality.

It won't be long before fasting starts and I am thinking of going on a 4x4 into Asli country in Perak for 2-3 days . I make the trip about once a year and I usually take along useable clothes, childrens' toys , books and foodstuff to be distributed. If you have something to contribute please call me at 012 6369227. Better still, if you have a 4x4 you may want to join me .
Only condition is you have to be self sufficient and I can only take 2 vehicles. Be warned that if road conditions are bad ( you don't call it road really) your vehicle will take a lot of beatings. Ask Dr Amir Lee.

Well, that's all for now, Regards.
Adnan

Home Sweet Home

2008-07-29T22:54:00.006+08:00

Hi Guys,
I am Back Home.
Sorry for having neglected you for so long, the reason is I wasn't sure what to do when I reached Phnom Penh that I just wasted a lot of time staying in the hotel room watching TV and catching up on some local news (Malaysian News) on RTM 1. Yes, Cambodia has RTM1 aired.
Anyway, let's go back to HCM City (Saigon). I must admit that of all the cities I visited so far, HCM rates at the bottom of my list, not because it has not much to offer but because I was already travel weary after almost 2 months away from home. The city is too big to see in 2 or 3 days but having been in Vietnam for more than 2 weeks I have a pretty good idea what Vietnam generally is today. I did not visit the VC tunnels but with so much publicity through TV and the print media I don't need to experience it first hand.
District 1 in HCM is where most of the travel agencies are located and you see tourists from all over the world. I saw a couple of Malaysians and even met a middle aged couple and their daughter from Penang busy bargaining with a street peddler over some stuff. En Shamsuddin (60) , formerly of Penang Sports Club, his wife Puan Zainab and daughter Fariza, a MAS ground staff on their final shopping before flying back to Malaysia. We do get many Malaysians now travelling to destinations where MAS and Air Asia Fly. Many Muslims travelling to non Muslim countries complain of the difficulty of finding halal food, but then, that in itself is an adventure - coping with adverse situations. At the 'Highlands Coffee' outlet I saw 'Nasi Goreng' and Malaysian Red Curry Biskit on the Menu - halal or not is anybody's guess.
I toured HCM on a motorbike with my guide - a Vietnamese who once worked in Klang for 3 yrs. - Le Van Chinh. He now works in a restaurat in Dist. 1 and speaks quite good Malay. People like him made my stay and movements easier. In HCM peddlers along the streets harass you wherever you go and that can be a real nuisance. On top of that you have the street children, beggars, shoeshine boys and a host of pimps trying to entice you - not a friendly place for the weak. There are many parks and gardens that are well tended with manicured plants that I enjoyed where I went for brisk walks on several occasions. All over Vietnam you see lots of manicured plants in big pots done in the same style as bonsai ,the difference being, these plants are much larger to be termed bonsai. They are seen adorning frontage of buildings and streets and parks - something we should emulate.
I left HCM on Tuesday 22nd by bus and reached Phnom Penh around 3 pm. We also had to cross the Mekong river on a ferry before reaching PP. I checked into a guesthouse by the riverside where a lot of construction was going on to cope with the increase of tourists. However, you see a lot of people just idling because of lack of employment. Besides motorbikes and taxis for transport there are some 3,000 tuk-tuks available in P. Penh, but only about 5% are seen moving along the roads. Petrol price is the highest in ASEAN at 5,700 riels (about) RM4.50 per liter, so most tuk-tuk just can't afford to move around looking for passengers and instead stay stationary and wait for passengers. I am told that most Cambodians earn less than USD 50/- per month. However you see a lot of Luxury cars and SUVs on the roads in the city.
Throughout the day you see young children, men and women going through the piles of rubbish all over the city streets collecting whatever is recyclable. It is indeed a depressing sight. Just about everybody is trying to sell you something or other, children with trays of cigarettes, travel guide books, women with babies sleeping on the streets stretching their hands for handouts and the handicapped , if you are seen giving to one the others are sure to follow you, so how do you deal with such situations. You tell me.
I also had the good fortune to witness election preparations before I left P.P. In a show of strength, the political parties go on a motorised procession that stretches for many kilometers with thousands of motorcycles, cars and lorries waving party flags and shouting slogans and banging drums as they pass. It is like a festival.
I visited the 'Killing Fields' and the Genocide Museum , The 'Russian Market' and the Royal Palace, and the Old Market over 2 days while in PP. I was tempted to go to Seam Reip again but having to lug the bicycle again I decided against it. I visited Seam Reip last year.
On the morning before I left P. Penh I was cycling around taking photographs of some of the sights when I bumped into some cyclists in cycling gear and on their training rounds. After the introductions, I regret for not meeting them earlier. They were 2 Cambodian national cyclists and their coach . We had breakfast together and exchanged news on cycling and of course they were surprised to know what I had done. They revealed to me that as a national cyclist one receives an allowance of USD30/-per month, and as assistant national coach he is paid USD200/-per month. Unbelievable, isn't it. To supplement their income they act as cycling guide for about 20 days in a year. With that they earn another USD250/-. I don't know how much our national cyclists are paid, but I am sure it is adequate. I spent the rest of the day with them until it was time to leave for the airport. As a parting gesture the 2 cycliss received my official Beijing Marathon t shirts which I was only too happy to part with, thus reducing some weight of my baggage. For the excess baggage (bicycle) I had to fork out USD 40/-.
Well, now that I am back home, it doesn't mean that I will stop blogging . I shall continue sharing with you whatever activities I undertake after some rest. I shall also share with you more insights into my experiences throughout my journey the last 2 months.
I am truly sorry to hear of my Thai friend Somchai who lost his camera and the bad experience he had in Vietnam. So, I consider myself lucky because even after 2 months in 4 different countries I only have pleasant experiences to share with you. One reason , perhaps is because of my advanced age and the other because I travelled alone. When abroad luck also plays a part.
Thanks 'Bandit' Puteri Kamaliah, Jimbo, Dr.Amir Lee, Kama, Ann, Hassan, Sook Ying and Jason, Kishab, my friends at Warung Rus esp. Datuk Johan, Cikgu Mat, Din, YB Edward, Stanley, JJ , Datuk Jaafar, Lee B. Leong and others who have been keeping track of my movements and the support and encouragements and to Tey I am happy that you have got the Visa to China .I'll see you when you come back.. It is still possible that I continue my cycling to China from Hanoi some time in the future - after the olympics.
I have registered for the S'pore Marathon in early December and I need to go into the preparation soon. There are many other things that I'd like to do in the near future but I need to make a thorough research to ensure any undertaking ends in success.
Well guys, call me if you like, we can meet up some time. Regards and take care.
Adnan

In Saigon and the Chaos‏

2008-07-21T09:29:00.003+08:00

I am in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) now, but I want to write more about Nha Trang before writing about Saigon. Nha Trang has a lot to offer the visitor. The sea-front is about 6 km long and with beautiful palms and well tended trees and gardens. Like most parts of Vietnam, there are stone sculptures everywhere especially in parks and gardens .There are hundreds of them, some sculptured by artists and others in its natural form.
The other interesting feature of Nha Trang is that there are many tandem bicycles. There must be hundreds of them. I have never seen more of them anywhere else. Families and couples and children happily ride all over the place and enjoying themselves .
I met a couple, a doctor and his new bride from Hanoi riding tandem along the beach enjoying their honeymoon. Nha Trang also has a port that serves the central region.
Among other tourist attractions are the Po Nagar Cham towers built in the 7th century as a Hindu place of worship and now used by Vietnamese and Chinese Buddhists. Then, there's Nha Trang Cathedral built by the French. Bao Dai's Villa, residence of the former President and the Prime minister, is now a resort for tourists. Long Song Pagoda and the Pasteur Institute are also popular.
Many basket boats are also seen north of the city. These are round boats made of bamboo strips 2 meters in diameter and are used by fishermen in the area. It can sit 4 people.
Near the port is a station that serves the cable cars that take visitors to Vin Pearl Island 10 km away. I am told that it is the longest cable car ride in the world.
A lot of seafood is available in Nha Trang and I managed to sample some with my 'Guides' along the beach at a very cheap price because I was among the locals. In a restaurant, it would cost at least double.You do get beggars and children tugging at you asking for money, and it's difficult to deal with such situations, to give or not to give. Some are handicapped and some with young babies.
Another thing I noticed about Vietnam is the presence of very fine furniture in all establishments and houses and although the place may look shabby, the furniture is always fine, many with mother- of- pearl inlaid. This is seen all over the country.The only difference with the Chinese version is that they are lighter in colour.
I arrived in Saigon around 7 pm and if you think Hanoi is bad, Saigon is even worse, as far as the traffic is concerned. I am told the city has 8 million people, just imagine it. This afternoon I was shown around by a local guy who had worked in Klang for 3 years. He speaks quite good Malay and now he works in a restaurant. Saigon is not a place I like but, I'll do some cycling around, tomorrow, before moving on to Cambodia.
I am staying at a small hotel in the heart of the backpackers haunt in District 1 and the place is full of tourists from all over the world.The room costs US$15/-and there is no lift in the building, I need the exercise under the present circumstances.
In Saigon everybody seems to be selling something. Along the roadside, peddlers go round with a tray full of wallets, tissues and just about anything and they can be a nuisance when they keep following you all over. Shoe-shine boys bother you in restaurants, even children as young as 6 would come round selling something or begging. There was some rain yesterday and an hour ago, something not seen elsewhere. It is a welcome change.
Well, I now look forward to go to Cambodia, meet new people perhaps, different in some ways.
Regards to all and take care.
Adnan

In Nha Trang B4 moving to Saigon

2008-07-17T13:25:00.006+08:00

Hi Guys, Arrived at Nha Trang at around 7 am after about 12 hrs, but I managed some sleep as I had the 'sleeper.' Checked into a small hotel and will discover the place later.

Yesterday before leaving Hoi An I had the whole afternoon after checking out so, I went back to the ancient part of Hoi An again and I met the most number of people from different places in a single day.

While taking some photos near a stone sculpture I met 2 ladies and after some introductions one of them said that she's from Thailand and that she remembers seeing me pass her house about a month ago. Can you believe that? It's a one in a million chance, I think. Then at the same place I met an Australian middle aged couple and had a photo taken with them. Later I met an American couple-Trent Szakail (Hungarian American ) and Monica Gonzales (from Guatemala) who met in Spain as students 14 yrs ago and now married for 9 years. They now live in the USA.Then a group from Paris. Then some Japanese, and later still a Chinese from China who had the misfortune of having to hear my complaints about his country. Then I met again the Swiss couple whoI met in Hanoi, a young couple from Denmark and also a Korean who has been away for 9 months visiting India, Nepal, Bangladesh, Laos, Cambodia and now Vietnam. Next he visits Thailand.The number of people from all over the world is endless, but other than in Hanoi and Ha Long Bay I have not met a single Malaysian in all the other places in Vietnam.

I just had a short ride in Nha Trang and to describe the place, I'd say it somewhat resembles Penang where the beachfront is concerned, but the stretch of beach is right where the city (town?) is with its many 4-5 star hotels, and the development is still frantically going on.

The sandy beach stretches for miles and miles and the activities include water skiing ,paragliding, and other water-based sports. It also has a backdrop of mountains that has a sign something like that of HOLLYWOOD.

I see may senior citizens just lazing around and chatting away with their friends and of course like everywhere else couples sitting together or strolling. A lot of foreigners stay at the posh hotels just across the road from the beach. Most elderly people speak French but youngsters are learning English to cater for the increase in tourists from all over the world.

Two students studying tourism will be my guide this evening to show me around Nha Trang for free. When I asked why they are doing it , they say that it is because they'd get a chance to learn and practice English. Things look promising for me in Nha Trang so, I'll leave you now and perhaps blog again later tonight.Regards

Adnan

In Hoi An and moving on to Nha Trang‏

2008-07-16T00:05:00.004+08:00

I left Hue for Hoi An around 2.30 pm yesterday and arrived at Hoi An around 6.30 pm. This is a small town but is supposed to be the oldest with a very ancient history. It goes back to a time BC. and has strong links with China, India, Japan , Thailand and some others.
The journey from Hue to Hoi An is about 150 km and I am glad I took the bus as there were stretches of very high hills, before Danang which has a harbour. Before Danang there is a road tunnel that is more than 16 km long, and the scenery throughout the journey is very scenic with a view of the sea.
The weather has been very hot and the temperature is around 37C. Apparently the school is on vacation for the summer for 3 months. there is still 1 month before the school reopens.
Today at breakfast I bumped into the Canadian girl who also stayed at the same hotel as I did in Hue and we went sightseeing together in the old city together with a guy from the hotel in Hue. There are several sights and you have a choice of five locations for a fee. Basically they are old houses of the early Chinese traders, ceramic museum, the earliest Chinese temples and such. It is more for students of history. There is also a beach nearby which I may go before leaving Hoi An for Nha Trang. I also met a couple whom I met in Hanoi at the ancient city, looks like most people use a similar itinerary while in Vietnam.
From Hoi An I move to Nha Trang some 500 km away and I'll be traveling by bus with a 'sleeper', for a journey that takes about 12 hours. Nha Trang is a seaside town famous for its beaches. The Miss Universe is just over I think. It was showing on TV over several days.
Vietnamese beaches will soon rival our beaches and those of Thailand, being more liberal than us they will surely attract some of beach buffs away from Thailand and other Asean countries.
That's all for now. Till next time, regards and take care.
Adnan.

Two Days in Hue then on to Hoi An

2008-07-13T16:33:00.004+08:00

Hi, Today I went to visit some of the tourist spots in Hue. First I visited the Citadel, the old walled Palace of the ancient Vietnamese rulers. The complex is huge, walled all round and the wall is some 15 ft thick and 20 ft high. It is very impressive compared to the 'A Formosa ' in Malacca. Surrounding the wall is a moat filled with lotus (flower) plants.I didn't go to see the inside as I have to pay an entrance fee and it was too hot to see such a big complex at this time of year. Next, I visited a Pagoda which is also very impressive. Lastly I visited one of the tombs of Vietnam's ancient rulers. Hue has several of these tombs. This place would be a favourite for historians.
Hue is scenic with the river called 'Perfume River' adding to its charm. The riverside is a favourite with tourists and locals. You can stroll all along the riverside on the concrete walkway. In the evenings traders would spread their wares which include souvenirs, fruits etc.There are two bridges for vehicles and another for the train. At night the riverside is lighted and provides a beautiful scenery. There are a big number of Europeans, especially French tourists, around, the French being Vietnam's former colonial masters. There all kinds of transport available for hire here - cars, motorcycles, bicycles and trishaws. There are even some tandem bicycles for hire.
Hue has a tremendous tourist potential and there are lots of construction going on to cater especially to the tourists. There are two 5 star hotels and more are being built.
I am moving off to Hoi An tomorrow. I don't know what lies in store but I am assured by the hotel staff that I won't be disappointed. They are making the arrangements for me. Hoi An is about 150km from here.
Thank you Thoa from Hanoi who made all my travel arrangements and made my stay in Hanoi very pleasant. Do keep in touch. That's all for now guys, take care.
Adnan

2 days in Hue then to Hoi An

2008-07-12T21:39:00.007+08:00

Hi Guys,
I left Hanoi yesterday around 7.30 pm by bus, but due to the impossible jam, didn't get out of Hanoi until around 9 pm There is so much construction in Hanoi, especially the highway, getting in and out, can be a nightmare. I was lucky that I had a sleeper on the bus that enabled me to really stretch, like on a bed, and sleep comfortably. I have not seen such buses back home . The last row at the back sleeps 5 persons, then the 2 rows in front of it sleeps 2 on each side, so in total there 13 beds while the others have the usual reclining seats which are also comfortable. The only strange thing I find, is that the bus does not stop at any RnR for toilet stops, but instead stop at at any spot convenient for one to ease oneself. I pity the poor ladies. The bus had more foreigners (Kwai Lohs) than locals. I managed at least 6 hrs of intermittent sleep, which I consider good.
Moving through the night, I didn't see much, although we passed through part of the way I cycled into Hanoi until Vinh. At dawn it was the usual paddy fields and traffic.
Hue is about 670 km from Hanoi and it is not so crowded. The town has a lot of historical sites, as this was the seat of the Vietnamese past rulers (like Malacca). Many areas of the town have remnants of the palaces and ruins of the past. It is a riverside town and is served by two bridges and a railway bridge. Many riverboats take tourists for a river tour and the river-side is a favourite of locals and visitors. The sunset is beautiful here and as the sun goes down all kinds of traders set up their stalls to trade, as everywhere else in Vietnam.
Another interesting thing I find about Vietnam is that most people eat dog meat. I was invited to join in for a dog meat dish and if I hadn't asked I might have eaten some. They find it strange that I didn't even want to try. Here, in Hue, there is also a lot of construction going on, especially to cater for the tourists - hotels, guesthouses etc. In another five years, infrastructure for tourists would be ready, and, so will prices.
It is not too bad to cycle here as the traffic is not too heavy and many people here, also cycle. If only it is cooler in the afternoon, then it will be ideal. That's all for today, more tomorrow. Regards and take care.
Adnan

Specially for Somchai in Chumpon, Thailand

2008-07-12T14:34:00.007+08:00

Hi Somchai,
Great to hear from you again. I just want check with you about your cycling to Vietnam. If there is any chance that you are in Vietnam anywhere where I am and the date coincide, I'll only be too glad to meet and cycle with you again. Please let me know your itinerary and the dates so that I may change my plans and cycle with you (if possible) Regards to all my friends in Chumpon and Thailand. Hope to blog again tonight.
Adnan

To Hue, Hoi An, Nha Thrang,and Saigon

2008-07-11T15:12:00.005+08:00

Hi guys,
I am leaving Hanoi today for Hue and onwards to Saigon some 1900km away. To cycle all the way will take about 2 weeks and the cost will be quite high so I have decided to take the bus instead together with the bicycle and though I have to pay for the bicycle as well the time taken will be shorter thus saving on the hotels. From Saigon I hope to go on to Cambodia (Phnom Penh) and maybe Seam Reap before flying back to KL. I should then be back in KL before the end of the month. I would still be cycling at the places I stop and enjoy the local scene.
Dr Lee, don't worry, I am still in good shape though a little soft and of a different colour. To Tey, I hope you will succeed where I fail. To Datuk Johan, Cikgu Mat ,Lee Boon Leong, Sam (Din), and all the guys at Warung Rus, sorry I can't report back on the Miao women. Will try again another time .
The two girls from Malaysia ,Chan and Shirley have left for home and too bad I didn't get to know them better, they had such a hectic schedule.
Another two Malaysians just arrived, Dominic Wong and Anthony Kok from CIMB. Looks like Air Asia is doing a roaring business.
While in Hanoi two girls have been very helpful to me and I am sorry to have to leave them: Quyen and Thoa (sisters) who sell tour packages for a Tour Agency. Without them I would not have managed with the problems that I had to solve.
Well I guess that's all for now, till next time , regards and take care.
Adnan.

Moving On

2008-07-10T12:29:00.005+08:00

Hi guys ,
I have been in Hanoi for a week now and I need to move on. Forget China and the Olympics .I shall leave in the morning heading for the south of Vietnam right up to Ho Chi Minh city (Saigon) and after that hopefully, Phnom Penh in Cambodia. I don't know for how long I will be on the road but now that the cycling adventure is no longer relevant, my movement will be hindered by the bicycle. I can now take the bus or the train but the bicycle has to be taken along with me and that can cost quite a bit. The bicycle can also cost more than the passenger as my enquiries revealed. Anyway, we'll see as I go along.

To go south I have to travel the same way I came and that's not something I look forward to, so I will probably take the bus down to Hue passing through Vinh where I stopped before. After that I'll decide where to cycle and where I should take the bus .Whatever it is, I know it will be a new experience, so we'll see. To those who are not familiar with Vietnam the distance from Hanoi to Hue is about 700km and to Ho Chi Minh is about 1,800km and to cycle all the way from here will take at least 2 weeks without rest, I am not going to do that for sure.
After being away for about one and a half months now, I think I have lost some muscle mass although endurance-wise I am still ok.When I get back I need to beef up again, to regain muscle strength and stay in shape. I really miss my gym workout.
This is something I should write about : I notice that there are very few fat or obese people in Hanoi or in Vietnam in general. I have no clue as to the reason why, but it must be their diet or they are more physically active than us Malaysians. The streets are still crowded with people walking, and cycling and carrying out physically laborious tasks and that could be the answer. Like in Thailand and Laos, all available land is utilised for crops, even on the fringes of the city. In some cases the land is still ploughed using the traditional buffalo or cows/bulls, those without the mechanical harvester still use the sickle. The wages are also low - the receptionist cum manager at the hotel I am staying now earns US$150/- a month and his 3 assistants act as cleaner, bellboy and general worker earning US$ 70/- a month. Not much isn't it? Many Vietnamese have been to Malaysia to work and many said that they are happy to earn RM500/- after all other expenses are taken care of.
Well guys, That's all for the time being, I shall try and blog as often as I can, I appreciate your company. Cheers.

Need To Decide And Move On

2008-07-09T18:43:00.002+08:00

My last effort here failed. I went to the Malaysian Embassy hoping to get some positive answers but alas it was not to be. Nobody could help me anymore ,here at least. Other Malaysians in similar situations have also failed and they include some cyclists. Its up to me now ,whether to return to KL or continue cycling to the south of Vietnam and then on to Cambodia and back through Thailand. Whatever it is it will still be fun as far as I am concerned. You guys can still follow my blog because I am certain I'll be encountering more interesting people and places to write about. I am now a familiar face in Hanoi and need to move on as it is not cheap here. A few people have been quite close to me and I am going to miss them .
This is all for today.Regards to all.
Adnan

They refuse to give the Visa .Period.

2008-07-08T18:23:00.006+08:00

Hi again,
It is not something unexpected, I am just angry because they made it very unpleasant. After yesterday, I arranged a hotel booking in Nanning and got the confirmation faxed and I also got a return bus ticket booking to Nanning. With the documents required I again made my way to the embassy. After having to queue like everybody else I was later told to get photocopies of the documents, so I had to leave the Q and take a motorcycle ride for some 1/2 km and with the photocopies joined the q again. At the same counter as yesterday the same guy
said that the Chinese govt. is not issuing visas to those without visas from the country of origin. Can you beat that? It is sickening, to say the least. Anyway I was not the only person to be refused, so that's a little consolation. 'Kwai Loh' and some from other Asian countries were also refused. What's next?!!!
My brothers-in-law have left Hanoi for KL and I have moved to a smaller hotel, which is very comfortable and the people friendly for just USD18/- , to lick my wounds and plan my next move. Forget China and the Olympics. I will stay here for 2 more nights and
then move south to Hue and continue to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). From there I might go to Phnom Penh. I might skip Seam Reap because I was there last year and make my way back to KL. What an anti climax eh.!! Well, that's life, I guess..
I know I have disappointed many people but, don't worry there will be other adventures to plan and look forward to.I welcome suggestions from all.
I thank all those who have been following my progress thus far and I shall continue to blog whenever I can as I go along from here.
Sorry Jimbo, 'Bandit' Tey, Rizal, Ann, Puteri Kamaliah and Anonymous for your comments. I have more to write especially about some of the interesting people that I met along the way from the time I started, and when I get back to KL I'd be able to post more pictures .
There are two Malaysian girls who are also guest of the same hotel ,but I still do not know their names as they have gone out - I'll get to know them when they come back. They actually just came in from Sapa and leaving for KL tomorrow.Well, I guess that's all for now, keep your chin up. Regards .
Adnan

They refuse me a visa

2008-07-07T22:17:00.002+08:00

Hi again
I am still in Hanoi and looks like I am stuck here for a few more days. I went to the embassy this morning and they need a firm hotel booking and return ticket before they issue a visa. I'll have to try and use other methods and try again tomorrow but the chances are 50-50. My two brothers -in-law are leaving tomorrow, so I'll be left alone again to fend for myself, and I'll have to give up all the luxuries I have been enjoying the last 4 days. I'll check into a one 'star' -(me) hotel and wait and hope for the visa.
I am itching to get started again as I am getting fat - with the good food and luxuries..I just can't imagine what to do if I fail to get the visa. Any suggestions?
I don't want to end the journey this way .Wish me luck,everybody. and take care.
Adnan
PS. Thank you sook ying and Jason for your comments, will tell you stories when I get back. And also to you Choon in BG. Regards to Auntie.

Still enjoying Hanoi.

2008-07-06T21:22:00.006+08:00

Hi again, Sorry for the abrupt stop yesterday, but here they are strict about closing time, but they are not punctual about opening.Yesterday I (we) visited the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, where 'Uncle'Ho's embalmed body can be viewed. Thousands had to queue before you can enter and the opening hrs are very short-only about 3 hours. 'Uncle' Ho is Vietnam's greatest hero and his contribution to the country continues even after death. Millions go into Vietnam's coffers just by having to view his body. Many people won't agree with me but he looks like a wax model to me. Even Madame Tussuad's wax models look more lifelike than "Uncle". The Museum is a better choice as it depicts the country's history and how they fought the French.

There are many more sights you can visit but I don't care much for temples and pagodas.Just like Thailand and Laos transport available are the same- buses, taxis, motorcycles, and trishaws but strangely no tuk-tuk. Just about everyone will try to fleece you if you are not wise, so don't be easily taken.

Today we had lunch at a 'Malay' restaurant run by 'Ben' Alias a guy who left the country 30 yrs ago and has since been to 16 countries. His first marriage was in 1999 to a Vietnamese girl (32) Nur Adelena Abdullah and they have 2 daughters 21/2 and 7. 'Ben' is 61 years old and was a national sepak takraw player in the 70's The food is nothing much to shout about but it is ok when away from home. Generally food is expensive here.

I lost my helmet somewhere before reaching Hanoi so now I have just bought a new one. Sorry Agos, to have lost what you gave me, it has served me well.

I 'll be going to the Chinese Embassy tomorrow and hope to get the visa. I am hopeful. Got to leave now - hope to blog again tomorrow with some good news- I hope. Regards to all.

Adnan

A grand time in Hanoi

2008-07-05T23:12:00.007+08:00

Hi again,Today I'll write about what I have been dong since I arrived in Hanoi.
The ride from Thanh some 150 km away was uneventful, as the route was as usual monotonous, except, when I meet people whom I could communicate with. Anyway, many found me quite strange cycling alone, along the dusty road with heavy panniers (saddlebags) with 3 flags flying. Many thought I was Laotion, and when they knew I was Malaysian they showed extra interest, some would ride their motorcyles alongside and have a chat before riding off. There's a railway that actually runs parallel the road most of the way.
I hit the dual carriageway highway about 40 km before Hanoi which made riding easier but I rode for 10 km in what I call 'hell' traffic. The traffic was teeming with thousands upon thousands of motorcycles (and bicycles) and other vehicles. To see a situation like that reminds me of ants moving in all directions and yet manage to avoid collision - you have to see to believe. I was later told that the population of Hanoi is close to 4 million and there are 2 million motorcycles. I rode for 10km before reaching the hotel where I was greeted by two of my brothers- in- law, who had flown in a day earlier, to spend some time with me before I go into China. Shahrin 70 and Dato' Syed Abdul Rahman 68 were equally happy to see me, still in one piece, amazed at how I managed the traffic. Anyway I was extremely glad to check into a 3 star hotel with all the luxuries, and real decent food (the Indian Restaurant was just opposite the hotel). Mutton curry was the first of my choices, (after a quick bath,that is).
Yesterday was Ha Long Bay some 170km away, but the journey was worth it, though I wouldn't make a second trip there. The three of us went in a hired SUV with a guide and and again a private boat just for the three of us and the guide. The boat can actually take 50 passengers. We spent 3 hrs on the boat and had lunch freshly cooked on the boat with fresh crabs, prawns, squids, veges and other dishes. Ha Long is a real wonder of nature with some 2000 outcrops of islands and rocks of various shapes and sizes and have caves similar to those in Sarawak (Mulu) There were hundreds of other boats with tourists mostly 'Kwai Lohs' and from other countries. All in all the trip was worthwhile though short. A better arrangement is to stay overnight at Ha Long bay instead of a day trip.
Along the way we also stopped at factory producing ceramic and china and gemstones. There was also a section producing handwoven paintings done by handicapped workers who are children of parents affected by 'agent orange' during the Vietnam War.
The 'Cafe' is closing, will continue tomorrow. Regards.
Adnan

In Hanoi and don't feel like leaving.

2008-07-04T22:37:00.007+08:00

Hi Guys, Sorry for deserting you for so long, but sometimes I had no choice. Anyway here I am again and I'll try to fill you up from where I left off. After leaving Vientianne I headed for Pakxan some 100 odd km away but it was quite easy as it was flat most of the way. The road wasn't as good as in Thailand but traffic was light and that helped. Laos is very undeveloped compared to Thailand and some people in the remote parts still live in thatched huts like you find among the 'orang aslis', back home, but one thing we should envy them is that these so called huts enjoy cable TV. Satellite dishes are all over. Pakxan is a small town, like Slim River and has only one hotel.The hotel is well appointed though not well maintained. Towns in Laos seem to have hotels owned or run by Vietnamese. Even the masseurs are Vietnamese. Don't ask me if I have been naughty, you are not going to believe me whatever I tell you anyway.
One thing about Laos I notice, is that, they have vast timber resources and they produce very good wood products - furniture, carvings, etc. Only hope they don't plunder their forests like we do. The other town I spent the night before crossing to Vietnam was Lak Sao and I had the misfortune of being checked into a guest house that was run down and because of the heat,I left all the windows and the door ajar. After a few minutes a herd of goats found their way into the room. And to get to that town must be the hardest ride I had so far . I had to tackle very steep hills something like cycling up Cameron Highlands by Simpang Pulai, but once you reach the top the view is really breathtaking, and way down in such situation, it is always a welcome sight.
The Laotian children are really friendly. They readily pose for photographs esp. with my bicycle. Many are amazed at the number of gears the bike has.
From Lak Sao to the Vietnamese border, is about 30 km, and though it has some hills they are gentle and almost without traffic. After clearing immigration and crossing to the Vietnamese side it was the most pleasant ride because I did not have to paddle for about 25 km. I only came across about 12 vehicles for that distance - amazing. After that it was mostly downhill. Hardly anyone speaks English in this part, so I had problems even asking for directions, and in fact once shown the wrong way. Luckily, it was only a short distance. I was chased by a dog again after crossing the border, border guard dogs, I guess, . I reached Vinh late evening and checked into a nice 2 star hotel and was surprised that it costs only USD10/- while at some hotel of worse conditions I paid USD15/-
I am now in Hanoi and I'll try and write more about Vinh and the ride to Hanoi tomorrow, but just make sure you stay with my blog. I am now staying in a very well appointed Hotel in the tourist area of Hanoi, with two Malaysians, my two brothers -in-law, who flew in the day before. We just came back from a cruise in Halong Bay. I may need to stay longer here, which I don't mind. I have to try for the visa on Monday and that could take some time.
To some of my friends in PACM who are following my blog I hope your training is going well, what with all the runs coming up soon. After a miserable finish at the last KLIM I really need to put in some training to even come in under 6 hrs. I envy guys like YLWan, Hooi. Gary, Kishab who have always been consistent, and Ngae, how about another Sahara marathon. Let me try the S'pore marathon in Dec first.
Blueamoeboa, arz , and Ann ,thanks for all the encouragemant and advice -you guys take care as well. To those who SMS to me, please identify yourself. I'd like to know you. That's all, till tomorrow. Regards.
Adnan

Vientianne to Pakxan

2008-06-26T19:54:00.006+08:00

Hi Guys,
I am writing again before I leave Vientianne because I don't know when I can access an internet cafe again. I have been told that it'll be tough from now on . I have been advised not to cycle north to Luang Prabang as the route can be dangerous as I am alone so I'll be going east to Pakxan some 160 km away. There are no towns in between so, looks like I have to make that in a day, otherwise I'll have to look for a temple or something like that.
Earlier, I said that a railway line runs in the middle of the 'Friendship Bridge' but was told it is still not being used as there are no railway trains in Laos. That is for the future.
Vientianne as not as organised as cities in Thailand. There's a lot of rubbish around and things are not well kept. I see a lot of uniformed men around at street corners and the streets and buildings. They don't seem to be doing anything important. I don't know what they are paid for.
At the shopping centre, 'Capital', that I had my mutton curry, the air conditioning is so bad that it is as if there's no air conditioning at all. Anyway I went there again, for my b'fast (coffee and egg-tuna sandwich) and lunch ( rice and chicken curry). Thai Baht can be used but since I ran out of them I had to widthraw from the ATM. and you know what, I drew 1,000,000 Kip. which I think is about RM400/-. I am a multi-millionaire here.
There are quite a number of 'whites' around. Some are tourists and some have married the locals and I guess settled here.
I had a bad dream during a nap this afternoon. That really shook me and made me really stressed physically and mentally. Well, I am only 1/3 of my journey, I must stay strong and focused, and thinking of you guys, keeps me going.
Thanks Jimbo, Tey and others who left comments and my friend Datuk Johan Jaaffar who never fail to lift my spirits up and Din at 'Warung Rus", Minister Of Youth and Sports, and Adun Edward, the Local MP, for the encouragements, and to all who are following my progress. Hassan, you are still there ? Till next time. Love and regards.
Adnan

Laos and.........

2008-06-25T19:58:00.007+08:00

Hi Guys,
Sorry for being quiet for quite a while- sometimes I don't have access to a cafe. Left Udon Thani early 6.00 am local time which is 7.00am Malaysian time (already bright). As usual the route is easy and straight and flat but this time 8 km out on the h'way, on 2 occasions I was chased by dogs. The first, a mid- sized dog that chased me for 70 meters before it lost steam and the second time, 2 dogs chased me for almost 100 meters before giving up. I wasn't in any real danger really, because dogs cannot bite you, while running. Good thing I had power in the legs as they actually kept pace for the distance. This Olympic fever has also got to the dogs eh. I also had a small snake crossing my path - missed it by inches. Much of the route had petty traders selling their wares, barbeque chickens, coconut water and many other things. No wonder, I don't see RnRs like we see on our H'ways. There are also no toll booths.
I made two stops and as the journey to Nong Khai was only 55 km I had plenty of time. I came across a farm that uses solar panels instead of the usual plastic coverings. I haven't seen that back home. At 9.00 I stopped for b'fast at a stall run by a mid- aged lady and chatted with some others. Many ladies run businesses on their own as their husbands have left them and the children. They are nonetheless very enterprising, and one I met, says that she is still hoping to find another husband, and she has waited 16 yrs. She is still hopeful, though. One of them actually joined me for dinner that evening in Nong Khai with her 16 yr old daughter. I've become eligible in Thailand. Talking to farmers, and simple people keeps my mind off the tough journey ahead.
Udon Thani also has a lake like Khon Kaen, though smaller, and I managed to see part of of it and met some young cyclists there. They also have bicycles for rent which we don't have at our gardens. The cycling and jogging track is very well managed and the landscape beautiful.
Nong Khai is smaller than Udon Thani and is rather quiet, with most places closed by 8.00pm. Even the riverside cafes are not well patronised. You can see the Friendship Bridge and its lights at night.
I left Nong Khai at 9.00 after a light b'fast, cycled across the 'Bridge' after clearing immigration and said goodbye to Thailand. The bridge is slightly more than 1 km long and it is unique in that the railway line actually acts as a divider to the two-way traffic. After crossing I cleared immigration on the Laos side and proceeded to Vientianne.
Do you know that in Laos they drive on the 'wrong' side of the road? Yes they drive on the right. (Am I confusing you, he,he) One has to get used to that. They do the same in Vietnam, I am told. The highway to Vientianne is similar to that in Thailand, except that they are not well managed. The motorcycle and bicycle lane is strewn with debris and laterite and are dangerous. The only consolation is, there is little traffic. I am now staying at a small hotel but the room is clean and has all the luxuries like aircon, satelite TV, hot shower and the usual trappings. I' d probably stay an extra day to plan my route . Incidently, the guy manning the reception is a student in Nilai college, who is back for a short vacation and his family runs the hotel. Small world. In Laos the currency is the Kip. I changed 1000 baht into Kip and I got more than 260,000 kips but I paid 35,000 kips for a plate of rice, mutton curry and a drink. It reminds me of Indonesia. For the first time in nearly a month I had curry (Indian) at a food court in a shopping complex. Tomorrow I'll try the chicken briyani.
Thanks Jimbo,Tey and berisman for your advice and comments. and to Don the Treks pannier is giving good service so far, and do you know, most people think that I had been cycling for years before doing this, and when I tell them that my first serious ride was for the new year to Cameron Highlands they knew that I had a screw loose somewhere - he,he.
To those who SMSed me please excuse me for not replying. Thank you very much, I really appreciate them, it's just that it will cost me RM2/- for each SMS. Thanks Shem (Mrs Foley)
One other thing I came across on the highway in Thailand is that it is also used by buffaloes. Yes, one occasion a few of them were crossing and the vehicles had to wait for then. You see there are no fences to keep them away as on our highways.
Well it is quite long this time. I can write more, but if you know how long I take to write this you'd feel sorry for me, typing using one finger at a time. Regards and take care.
Adnan

Khon Kaen to Udun Thani tomorrow?

2008-06-21T18:01:00.004+08:00

Hi again,
I' m getting closer to the Laotian border and I don't know whether I should be happy or otherwise. I have had a nice experience in Thailand, despite the problems with things like communication and the regular food that I'm used to. It is always hard to get coffee and you can forget 'teh tarik', or nasi lemak. I get a lot of tom yam, tho'.
This morning I went on a sightseeing tour of Khon Kaen with my "guide" the bellboy from the hotel . It is his day off. There is a huge lake here that has a track all around it which is perfect for jogging or cycling, and it is very well kept. It is about 5 km around the lake with a restaurant and the local museum nearby. While there, a motorcycle race was going on at a small circuit and Petronas was well represented. There was also no lack of monuments all over the place. With a bicycle it is much easier to move around, except for the hot sun.
My camera is now 'kaput', so, unless I get a new one there will be no more pictures. I actually dropped the camera before reaching Hat Yai but it was still functioning, now, I m afraid it's gone.
The route I have taken so far had been rather flat and the scenery although beautiful is rather boring because in Thailand it is paddy fields and more paddy fields, even along the highways. Outside of Bangkok, the traffic is not as heavy as we find on Malaysian highways. I have also been lucky, that, so farI had good weather except for some drizzle on the way here, otherwise it was hot,hot,hot.
In the hotel room, except for the few channels that has English news all the movies are in Thai. It is interesting to see Sean Connery,Charlston Heston, Sophia Loren and all the Hollywood stars speaking Thai. Let's hope we in Malaysia don't follow suit.
The petrol price in Thailand is much higher than back home. It is 44 baht per litre for the premium grade and a little less for the others, but parking is free at most places except at the complexes and private car parks. However outside of Bangkok I don't see any jams.
I must confess that I am terribly homesick and missing the things that I usually do, like gardening, the workout at home or the gym and most of all my buddies at 'Warung Rus' in PJ Old Town, especially the regulars like Datuk Johan, Cikgu Mat, Din, Datuk Jaafar, JJ, Sam, Lee, Stanley's loud voice, Wak Sudin, Hj Kamaruddin, Agos, Rosli, Mejor, Alam, Alias, Oad and others - too many to mention and of course, Kamariah's cooking. To you guys, you are always in my thoughts, salam and take care. I guess that's all for now.
Regards and take care.
Adnan

In Khon Kaen on way to Laos.

2008-06-20T16:37:00.006+08:00

Hi guys,
Sorry for being silent for some days. Sometimes I'm just too tired or the cyber cafes are not within reach.
Anyway nothing much to write about the ride itself. It's when I meet people that it becomes interesting.I had been lucky so far as there was no rain except for a slight drizzle yesterday and I managed to stay dry with some shelter along the way. The rains are always in the evenings after I stop riding. In Korat I met some interesting people. Here's some of them:
1. An Australian lady (Christian missionary) at a cafe during lunch. Joy Norrish, born in New Zealand (Owaka) South Island, grew up in Darwin, Australia. At 20, left home to go backpacking around Australia, then to England and worked as a barmaid there in a number of pubs. From there went to Europe in 1976, Holland, Spain then to Morocco, the Sahara and to Kenya and ended in Johannesburg. All this was done in 4 months and 4 days.
She went back to Darwin and became a born again Christian and started a Drop-In Centre. The centre provides snacks, coffee, board games and table-tennis and preach Christianity. The funds were provided by the church.She did this for six years.
Then she ran a backpackers joint with 5 rooms in a big rented house for 5 years. After that she became a ' foster mum' for indigenous children from alcoholic parents and sexual abuse families.There were other couples providing the same, but she's the only single person.
Ten years ago she packed up and came to Korat, Thailand, when a Pastor needed someone to teach English. She taught English for 6 months at St. Mary and gave up as she found it impossible. (according to her Thai children start learning English at 5 but when they graduate from University they still can't even construct a proper sentence). She blames the Thai Education system. She then joined the American Missionary with 3 other families.
The interesting thing is, she has no formal training as a missionary like those from the convent who are known as 'Sister.' The day I met her she was packing to go back to see her family back home. She has an elder sister and an elder brother in New Zealand and a younger sister in Australia, with her mother, who is 89. She's 58 going on 59 and she goes in and out of Thailand to renew her visa every 90 days - isn't that amazing? She stays in a rented room at an apartment and says that she has never been harassed.
2. Mr. Sun Thon (53) a physical education teacher who is also a cyclist and a member of the Cycling Union in Korat.
3. A Japanese, Mr Kenjiro Oka (61yrs) also a cyclist and a photographer from Osaka. Besides cycling, he is also into horse racing and a kayaking instructor in Nagano. He also mountain bikes and had a number of crashes showing the pictures through his laptop. (I should do the same in my next trip) He also sails and wind surf. He is now in Thailand covering the amateur road races from Bangkok to Chiangmai.
In Korat I must thank Miss Nipawan and her brother and Miss Malinee Inla for their kindness in showing me around and introducing me to Mr Pisit Mitrapanont, the bicycle shop owner who attended to my bike. They are all passionate about cycling.
In Thailand I miss the newspapers, as all are in Thai. At least in Bangkok I had the Bangkok Post. It is also difficult to get coffee or tea. Thais don't seem to drink them.
Thanks again to those who posted comments. You keep me company. That's all, till next time, take care.
Adnan

From Korat to........

2008-06-15T16:06:00.011+08:00

Hi Guys,
It's me again, this time from Korat (Nakon Ratchashima) where the SEA games was held in December. Got here late yesterday and am really very tired, may stay here an extra day to look around. Nothing much to write about the cycling, the same boring routine but this time with some hills. It's better for me to write something about my observations of the things in Thai towns.
Transport in Cities and Towns as in all over the world are always getting a lot of attention because of its complexities. Some seem to run well while others are always plagued with problems - like in Malaysia. What I notice in Thailand is quite unique. There is the usual Express Buses that go long distances; then, there is the regular stage buses that go from one town to the other and back; in the towns you have the taxis that are comfortable and the tuk-tuks that are fast and cheap. But do you know, here, they also have taxis in the form of motorcycles, yes, motorcycles.They take you from one point to the other for a small fee and you ride pillion. They can be seen at various corner and locations in the town and they wear a distinct vest with name and number. That I think is a brilliant idea. It not only provide jobs, it is also convenient to beat the jams . I noticed a young girl getting down from a stage bus with her grandmother and putting the granny on a motorcycle, side saddle, to her next destination. Would you do that with your granny? Then you still see some of the trishaws still operating, using leg power. Travelling in Indonesia and Thailand I see that almost anybody is given a chance to earn a living in just about anyway they choose. Maybe we should do the same in Malaysia, then we won't have taxis refusing to use the meter or bus companies monopolising a given route. We may even get rid of the Mat Rempits.
While in the hotel room, idling away the time, I had the chance to watch some TV and I must say that I have never seen so much sports programs in one day than when I was here. In one day I saw Wimbeldon Tennis live and reruns of previous championships, The Formula One ; Moto GP; Motocross and Stunt motorcycle competitions; Cycling.races; Mountain bike races; Snowboarding; Skiers jumping of cliffs; Skydiving (Solo and Team competitions) Drifting that had a Malaysian driver; Formula BMW at Sepang ; Australian Surfing rescue comp.; NBA; Baseball; Beijing Olympic preparations; EURO 2008 British Premier League; Table tennis; US Open Golf .live plus two channels of Thai boxing. What I am trying to say is; with so much exposure, no wonder the Thais are far ahead in sports - back home we don't cover sports events widely even when we have an international event like the Ironman or the Marathon.
The cyclists in Thailand are a passionate lot and they have so many websites covering the sport.
I don't know if I am right, but I think Thailand have less obese people than Malaysia. So guys don't wait, put on your sports attire, shoes and hit the road, cycle, hike, run, jog, climb or just sweat it out whenever you can. Like they say, use it or lose it. When I get back we can do it together, ok?.
For those who left their comments, thank you very much,I really appreciate them; OP Kam, Chipah, Hassan and his Facebook group, honeystar, afflatus, Naped, Somchai,Ben OPRizal ,Hood and others. Till next time, take care, love you all .
Adnan

Bangkok to Saraburi

2008-06-11T18:22:00.013+08:00

Hi Guys
I am now in Saraburi , 107km north of Bangkok. I left at 5.30am accompanied by a cyclist from the Thailand cycling club known as Oil (Oiltrips), a cross country cyclist, and following us in a vehicle were Mr Naped and Pitchrin Siribunwan. We cycled for about 15 km out of Bangkok before I was let out on my own. It was indeed a kind gesture and I really can't thank them enough. Cyclists from this club are indeed passionate about the sport and are always willing to assist other cyclists from outside.
The route to Saraburi is flat and wide but the traffic is heavy and as I have never ridden on a highway before it was indeed scary. The highway to Saraburi is very straight with 3 lanes on each side and alongside it is another road running parallel heading in the same direction. In other words there are 5 lanes on each side. There are no toll booths , so I assume it is free. The highway is definitely superior to our highways in my opinion, I wonder if Samy has been here.
I had a puncture 50 km out and that delayed me for some 25 minutes. It is tough really when you have to do it alone and in the hot sun.
I stopped for some food and drinks at the RnR about 30 km from Saraburi and was surprised to note that the place was not crowded like those on our highways.
I am now very tired and if I don't feel up to it I might spend an extra day here . My next destination is Korat. (Nakon Ratchasima) where the last SEA Games was held. Another cyclist is expected to meet me there. Isn't that nice. Another observation I made on the highway is that there were hardly any motorcyclists using it and of course I was the only cyclist the entire route.
I still receive many SMSes from well wishes from all over and I must say that it gives me real pleasure to know that I have friends everywhere now. Thank you all and maybe one day we may meet and share our experiences. Some tell me they are now thinking of buying a bicycle or taking it out from the store. Whatever you do, make sure it is safe. Don't do what I do, I only started serious cycling 6 months ago and there is actually a lot to learn especially how to ride safely. Malaysian towns and cities are not cyclist- friendly .Our city fathers need to change their priorities. Cycling is not only eco friendly but it is also a good form of exercise.
For your information my final destination is Beijing but you also need to know I still am without the China visa. China is now restricting visitors because of the Olympics. All are fully booked apparently. I just got to try when I get to the border. Wish me luck.
That's all for now. Till the next time - take care. Love you all.
Adnan

Bangkok ,then Saraburi

2008-06-10T16:23:00.006+08:00

Hi guys, it's me again from Bangkok. For your info I have been to Bangkok many times before but it had always been on transit at the airport and even overnight on my way to the Himalayas the last several years. This time around
I am able to see and experience what being in Bangkok is really like. I am lucky to have the company of Mr Naped and Miss Patcharin to show me around. They are both cycling enthusiasts from Thailand cycling Club. The club has a website and that's how they managed to trace me.
Bangkok is 3-4 times the size of KL and is a bustling city. Traffic is a real problem although the city roads are wide. The taxi ride to the Malaysian embassy 7 km away from my Guest house took 1 hour and it was a big disappointment when I got there. I only managed to speak to the ladies manning the front desks who were Thais and not able to see any Malaysian officials as they were having a meeting. I was asked to come in the afternoon or wait.
That's the end of my experience with the Malaysian Embassy. I then went to the Malaysian Tourism office some 400 meters away At Liberty Square and again the front desk was manned by a Thai lady. At least I managed to see and speak to the Deputy Director , a young man En. Ahmad Zawawi Zakaria who helped me to activate my Maybank card. I was also served coffee. I had expected to see Puan Rubiah whom I was told is the Director, but unfortunately she had been posted to Phuket in March. Puan Rubiah was a student I taught in Rawang in the early seventies . She was a pretty and popular girl who was also a good sports person. It would have been nice to see her again after over 30 yrs.
While in Bangkok I also had a chance to cycle to the various tourist spots accompanied by Mr Naped. Although traffic is heavy cycling is possible as the motorists seem to give way to cyclists provided you give the correct and early signals. At some places it is possible to ride on the sidewalks.
Bangkok has many monuments and parks and they seem to be well kept. The King is much respected by the people and everywhere you could see portraits of the King prominently displayed. All around the square where the Palace is situated you could cycle or jog as there is a track that goes round the entire area which is at least 1 km on each side. At night the city is beautifully lighted.
I am leaving Bangkok in the morning at 5 am to escape the traffic and 1 or 2 cyclists will ride with me for some 20 to30 km out of Bangkok before I go on my own Isn't that nice?
I am quite well known now in Thailand because a few days ago I was featured in the local paper together with photographs in Chumphon with Mr Somchai. Not bad eh.
Once again I must thank all of you who SMSed me and those who posted comments on the blog with encouragements and well wishes. Just know that your thoughts are always with me.. Hassan,Che, Ferhad, Azean, James Suraya , Surinder A Coy, Kamal, Jia You n Liz ,Dave Gaik Hong , Wan Azlin, Roshan Halim, Aziz Ramaro, Gaik Hong, Mrs Viji n fly Fatguy druz Mohan, Bhoy Faizan RedI Kana Bresar Lawerence Nantakumar Xsoldier Ben, Christine eu.Club ,Malcom Hood, Jun-e, OPRizal, MM Hani Azmzn tajau Bakar, NaNa, Cha Cha, Noorbee. Kama, Nona, Ann nd the Adams, Jimbo Tey, Khoo, All the Facebook group and others too many to remember. Love you all, take care , till next time.
Adnan.

En Route to Bangkok

2008-06-07T23:39:00.004+08:00

Hi, I'm heading towards Bangkok and should be there in 3 days. In Chumphon I met a cyclist who has been a great help, Mr Somchai Meesang. I rode with him to the beach and a fishing village 15 km from Chumphon. My next stop will be Prachap Khiri Khan then another 2 days to Bangkok. The name of the beach and fishing willage is Sa Ple 15 km from Chumphon. The beach is similar to those found in Terengganu and favorites of Kwai Lohs. It is off season now - not many tourists around .The fishermen are all Myanmar's (illegal) and everyone is struggling because of high fuel prices, Chumphon used to be hit by floods once or twice a year about 10 years ago but now it is free from floods because of a canal that runs through the area. The canal was constructed with funds given by the king. The king is like a God here.

Yesterday I received 75 smses from people that I know and others I don't know but I am really touched by the good wishes and support and encouragement given from all races , young and old. I thank you all, i really appreciate all the smses. That keeps me away from boredom.

Chumphon

2008-06-06T03:07:00.007+08:00

I'm now in Chumphon, quite a modern town about the size of Klang. The place is not crowded and though the traffic system is a little confusing everything seems to move well, people don't drive like Malaysians, nobody seems to speed, and there are no Mat Rempits. In Hattyai there is hardly anybody cycling but I was told that there are recreational cyclists and they cycle outside the city.
In Chumphon there are more cyclists than Hattyai . I also did not see many 'Kwai Lohs' in Hattyai but there are many of them here because it is near to Phuket , Krabi, Phang Na, and seaside resorts around. I received many sms but do not know from who as their names don't appear on the phone so, if you want to sms me please include your name, your smses are very much appreciated, thank you for all the smses. Thats all for now.

Adnan.

Pattalung & Surat Thani

2008-06-05T20:45:00.001+08:00

2.6.08

The route to Pattalung was flat and easy with good roads (Highway) but boring. Mostly Paddy fields and traffic lights. No cyclist along the way. Along the way I hit a hump and the camera dropped and it got dented . It's still working but the viewing screen is distorted.It's still working.

After Pattalung it also the same , easy and flat. In the east I see high mt range , some peaks as high as 2,000 meters. There seem to be a lot of paddy and young rubber planted. The scenery monotonous. Many people smsed me but can't reply 2 all, I m ok and thank you to all who smsed, I can only send sms maybe once a day to one person. I meet interesting people but communication is difficult otherwise all is fine. Riding alone , I can move when I like and people are willing to help, but u get lonesome as u cannot chat with anyone.

Adnan.

3.6.08

Somewhere after Surat Thani there seem to be a lot of Nira palms , smaller than d coconut and dark purple in colour They seem to be growing wild and not harvested I see some being sold in Hatyai. A round Khoapanombaek a lot oil palms are being grown. and east of Ban Ko Muk I see a ridge almost a replica of the Melawati Ridge in Ulu Kelang.

a little update

2008-06-04T23:37:00.003+08:00

Hello,

My dad says he's about 80km from Surat Thani, he's quite bored & will be happy to receive any sms/words of encouragement from all his readers, he can be reached at +6012-6369227. Thats all for today, will post more when i get updates from him.

Aedewan Adnan.

Hatyai

2008-06-01T17:08:00.003+08:00

1.6.08

Today i enter Thailand, left Changlun around 10.30 accompanied by 4 riders -2 Police personnels , a Plus staff and a bank officer who is an Old Putera, Sharizal (85-89) It's coincidental that an old putera 'Bandit" Azly saw me off from KL and another OP at Bukit Kayu Hitam. I am indeed grateful for the support from all. The ride to Hatyai is less than 60 km from the border but it was hot all the way. Made several stops along the way and met some interesting people. At one stop selling coconut water the guys were so impressed that I had several free drinks. At another stall manned by a young schoolgirl she was really trying to impress me with her English. Of course I gave her advice and some lessons. Reached Hatyai around 4 and checked into Rado (RM37)- it's cheap for two but I was alone. Food is not a problem as they are similar to ours and halal food is readily available. Touts are aplenty especially those plying the flesh trade. It's quite a task trying to get information as very few people speak English, and all writings are in Thai. Hatyai is pretty quiet compared to when I was there 2 years ago. It must be because of the insurgents in the south and the rising cost of everything. Tomorrow I move to Pattlung.

Adnan

updates from Taiping to Changlun

2008-05-31T15:46:00.003+08:00

Alor Star

Left Taiping after speeches by Dato' Ong and me in the presence of St John Taiping members and Boys and Girls and the media. Indeed memorable considering that Taiping is where I spent my holidays (I was studying In Clifford school) K. Kangsar.

After the ceremonial flag off at 9.20 we left Taiping by way of Kemunting and the old trunk road passing Kg Dew, Simpang Empat, Bagan Serai before reaching the ferry terminal at Butterworth. Bagan Serai was also a town in which I grew up from age 7-11. The railway look deserted though trains still use this line, also made a stop at Kampong Kedah mosque. My family's graves are all here- my father, mother, uncle ,cousins and other members of the family.

The ferry ride was also nostalgic the same sound & smells after all these years. in Penang i was met by St John staff, Mr Koay, Mr Iee and 3 Senior Angels & others. Dinner was at 8.00 pm hosted by state Commander Dato' Dr Yee Thiam Sun.

Left Penang the next morning in front of SJAM Penang HQ, flagged off by state comm. Dato' Dr Yee Thiam Sun. Escorted by ambulance driven by Mr Koay, Took the ferry across to Butterworth, had breakfast in B'worth then rode to Alor Star. Except for a few bends the route is almost a straight line but it was hot all the way. Reached Alor Star around 5pm. Met by Mr Chow of SJAM AStar. Put up at Hotel 3 km from town. Dinner at a shopping Mall.

Left Hotel at 8.30 After breakfast left with DR. Ch'ng Kok Heong Commander for Kedah, riding to the old mosque in town. Left with 6 riders from ST John . 2 gave up at Jitra. I stopped at the Jitra Police station where my brother in law served as OCPD in the early 70s. His name together with the others are displayed on a board hung at the stairway. The days ride continued towards Changlun, but 2 km from town I had a puncture. The tube was quickly replaced and finally we reached Changlun at12.30. The St John riders and the ambulance ended their duty here. As it was a little late to proceed to Hatyai I decided to stay the night in Changlun. I also had to buy another spare tube in case of more punctures. It is also here that Mazlan and I parted ways.
With the help of a local man, Mat Noor Osman i managed to sort out all problems. I had dinner with Mat Noor and his superior Tuan Syed Hasnan from TNB, before we part ways.

Wonderful Time in Ipoh and Taiping.

2008-05-28T22:11:00.004+08:00

28-08-2008

Had breakfast with Mr. Manin Singh and wife, Rajinder Kaur PJK. and about 20 boys and girls from Yuk Choy school. We were flagged-off by Dr. Harbaksh Singh and wife. We left the SJAM PERAK headquarters around 8.45 a.m. escorted by the ambulance driven by Mr. Chia Poh Seng , the area secretary of Central Perak. We arrived in Kuala Kangsar at 11.30 a.m. and I was met by my brother- in-law Dato' Syed Abdul Rahman (EX-MCKK) at Ah Loke restaurant ( Frequented by students in the 50's - one of the best Hailam restaurants in town ) I paid a visit to my old school (Clifford) and I was met by guru kanan bahasa as the HM was not around. Saw my classrooms from 1954 to 1960. The school has expended but the old hall and Chulan hostel still stand. Rather nostalgic, I must say since i have not been back back since 1961.

After that i left K.K around 1.30 to Taiping. Passed old familiar places then stopped at Shell station for a break in Padang Rengas. The owner Mr. Goh Yew Chee (an old Cliffordian himself) was so impressed with my effort that the soya bean and 100Plus that I drank on the house. On the way up Bukit Berapit my gears gave problems but somehow managed to reach the top without pushing. It was downhill for about 3 km without pedaling. Made another stop at a "gerai" in Bukit Gantang for asam laksa. In Bukit Gantang can't help thinking of JJ and his girls from KL during his visit for the election campaign in March.

4kms before Taiping we were caught in pouring rain and had to stop at a road side stall for one hour. Finally reached Taiping around 5 p.m. to a rousing welcome by officers from St. John North Perak and about 25 students who are attending a leadership course. The welcoming party comprised Madam Woo Yee Yuen, Madam Low Mei Hoon , Mr. Chan Kwai Woh and fellow officers.

I am indeed impressed with the set up of the headquarters which is made u a nursing home and a St. John headquarters itself. The home has 32 inmates ( 18 females and 14 males ). The nursing charges are very much cheaper than those of the Klang Valley. The charges are RM800 for nursing care for patients with mobility restricted problems and RM750 for those who can move on their own and there are also free patients made up of those with no next of kin or referred by surgeon who knows the background. Bachelors or spinters are charged half rate. I had a pleasant chat with an inmate who is 94 years old, Madam Teo Siew Mooi. It was an unique experience as she is still alert and sharp. I must say that the St. John Association of Malaysia is doing a very commendable service to the nation.

We had dinner at the Taiping New Club hosted by Dato' Ong Chin Choon who is the President of St. John Ambulance of North Perak. Also present were Mr. Ang Lye Hong (area commander),
Mr.Robertson Lim Ah Ong , Madam Low Mei Hoon , Mr Loh Boon Ken and Mr. Muthusamy. It was a wonderful dinner with fried veal, curry ikan patin, lemon chicken and vegetables. Taiping is actually my hometown and this home coming is indeed meaningful meeting all the wonderful people. How I wish I could share this wonderful experience with my friends from "Warong Rus" in PJ old town. I am already missing you guys : Datuk Johan Jaaffar, Ahmad Mahmud, Mr Lee, Jimbo, Pak Agos, Dato' Jafar, Haji Kamaruddin, Wak Nordin, Basha, Stanley's loud voice, JJ, Razif, Major RTD Yusof and of course Kamariah's cooking especially her specialty "the apam"-She can drive some people crazy with that. I shall post pictures for my next blog, if possible. Till next time. Regards to all.

Adnan

Flag off

2008-05-27T23:50:00.002+08:00

Hello all,

Today was the big day, was flagged off at 5 a.m from the St John HQ by Dato' Dr Low, Commander-in-Chief of St. John Ambulance Malaysia together with my wife & sons, rode off with Mazlan & also my ex RMC boy, Azly(thank you Azly for sending us off). The ride was hot after Tanjung Malim, we arrived at Kampar at around 1+, had our lunch and then proceeded to visit the St Johns Dialysis center, we arrived at Ipoh at 6 p.m, had our dinner at the old Anderson club, met up with Raja Harun & ex RMC boy Adis, had a few drinks with them, Raja Harun was my classmate from year 56, so it was really memorable meeting up with them, i guess that is all for today, will be leaving for Taiping at 8.30 a.m tomorrow.

I would like to send my warmest regards to my friends at Warung Rus & also to the readers of my blog.

Adnan

with Dato' Dr Low

Meet the Minister

2008-05-20T22:20:00.005+08:00

Hi,
Today is an exciting day. As arranged, I went to Parliament House to meet the Minister Of Youth and Sports and I must say the YB is really a pleasant gentleman . After the usual formalities I handed him the letter regarding my cycling proposal and without delay he glanced through it and immediately was on the phone talking to the KSU. He then turned to me and said that the Ministry would support my endeavor and give a cash sponsorship sufficient for my needs. Well, that I must say is a man of action. Thank you Datuk.

Here I must register my thanks to Datuk Johan Jaaffar who right from the start has played a big role in getting things moving . He can have all the teh tarik and the apam he likes the next time I see him at Warung Rus.

I still have many things to do before the official flag off from KBS on the 26th of May. The bicycle needs to be properly checked and serviced , spares to to acquire and other necessities to be checked to ensure that nothing is left out.

Tomorrow will be another hectic day to plan the schedule of the ride from Putrajaya to Bukit Kayu Hitam. This will be done with the collaboration of St John Ambulance Malaysia under Mr Burnard Yeo And the Ministry Of Youth and Sports. Hope all will turn out well.

That's all for now.

Regards,
Adnan

Vesak Day meeting

2008-05-19T22:36:00.000+08:00

With Warung Rus closed I had to join Cikgu Ahmad at the Kedai Mamak 18 jam for his breakfast. We were then by Cikgu Lee and later still by Jombo and his wife Betty. We talked about old times as all of us were together at one time or another during the last 40 over years. Another Brinsfordian passed away yesterday and we can't help but lament the fact that our numbers are fast decreasing. For those who are still around some are not so lucky and have to cope with problems like blood pressure ,gout, diabetes ,arthritis, osteoporosis and other health complications. For those who are lucky enough to enjoy good health let us thank God and pray that we continue to be so for the rest of our lives.

Jimbo and Betty will be leaving for Auckland at the end of the month to join their daughter who is expecting her first child. Both are looking forward to be a grandmother and grandfather for the first time. Bon voyage and all the best to them.

In the evening after my usual cycling around Jalan Tanjung /EPF area I joined Datuk Johan at the warung by the lake at Taman Jaya,PJ for drinks and continued our usual borak kosong . Datuk Johan is a regular hiker at Bukit Gasing ,either alone or with his aide Nan and after the hike we often meet up at Raju or Taman Jaya. Today Cikgu Mat and Lee joined us and today's hot topic is about Tun Mahatir's resignation from UMNO. One thing for sure there's never a dull day in Malaysia since the political tsunami of March 8th. I'd rather leave the political discussions and debates to others.

Tomorrow morning I have an appointment with the Minister of Youth and Sports at Parliament house . Due to some administrative bungling at the Ministry ,the Minister has yet to receive the letter I personally handed over to his staff on the 17 floor on the 5th May.The letter is regarding my cycling marathon to China. Through Datuk Johan's article that appeared in theNSTP on 3rd May the Minister wants to personally look into it. My only hope is that something favorable will come out of the meeting as many changes have taken place since my first letter to the Ministry in January that was under a different minister. To tell you the truth ,if not for Datuk Johan I would not bother to go and meet the Minister. Wish me luck.

Look out for my next blog.

Regards

Adnan

Sunday chat

2008-05-18T23:10:00.001+08:00

Hi Guys,

Nothing much happened since my first posting yesterday but a regular at Warung Rus called me to express his disappointment because I didn't mention his name with the group at the Warung. Of course I apologise for the omission. How could I not remember Cikgu Lee who's been one of those feeding me with lots of facts about China.He himself has been to China some years back and in fact gave me two books on China for reference. He is insistent that I locate a certain village that he missed while there. The village is ruled by women .The women do not marry but free to choose any man they fancy to fulfill their physical needs besides ensuring the continued existence of the species. The off springs are then cared for by the whole community. Being the 'macho' that he is I have been tasked to locate the village and do the needful. If things turn out to be favourable I am to immediately inform him and he'd catch the first flight out to this so called 'Miao" village - he is confident that he'd be able to persuade them to make him their leader. Apparently this system have been in place for many generations. I have located this village on the map and although is a little way off my route I promised Lee that I'd be happy to do him a favour and check it out for him. His worry however is, that this could be my final destination and that he's not going to ever hear another word from me. He, he

Warung Rus is closed for Wesak Day so there won't be the usual noise and activity in the vicinity. For some the closure means that they have to go without Kamariah' s apam for two days in a row. How they'll manage is anybody's guess.

Until next time , take care.

Adnan

My First Blog on KL-Beijing Cycling Marathon

2008-05-17T13:04:00.000+08:00

Welcome to my blog.
This blog is created to facilitate updates of my cycling trip to Beijing and for those who are interested to keep track of my progress when the actual cycling begins on the 26th of May 2008.
I'd like to record my thanks to the following for making the trip possible: Datuk Johan Jaaffar for highlighting my intentions to various people including the media albeit with hardly any positive response; St John Ambulance Malaysia for the assistance given from conducting instructions in first aid, providing first aid necessities,and agreeing to provide escort service from KL to Bukit Kayu Hitam during the ride in Malaysia;Dato' Dr Low Bin Tick; Dhyana Low, Burnard K.T.Yeo, and staff of SJAM Kawasan Pantai Selangor.
En Ahmad Mahmud, Shamsuddin Hassan, Datuk Jaafar Lajis, JJ, Hj Kamaruddin ,Alam, Wak Sudin,Pak Agos, Dr Azlan , Basha and many others at Warung Rus.
Datuk Syed Abdul Rahman, Datin Noorlia, Noorain, Sham Boy, Kak Besah, Dr. Amir Lee ,Tuan Haji Goh Eng Chaye , V.Giri, Daniel, Jimbo and many others for their support and encouragement. Also my ex students of RMC esp DR Sham, Kam Kasturi, and Anis Yusal who made me feel young again.
From the USA I would like to thank Dr Kweethai and Dr Steve Stork for their assistance and advice pertaining to training and health considerations.
Mazlan Rahmad for providing the bicycle and introducing me to the cycling group during my first ride to Cameron Highlands.
For the moment, the location of the official flag off of the ride and the time have not been confirmed and I will be announcing it through this blog when all is decided.
I welcome cyclists who would like to join me during my ride from KL to Bukit Kayu Hitam but please be sure to call me so that arrangement can be made to accomodate all the needs. You need not ride all the way ,e.g. you may just want to ride up to Rawang or Tanjung Malim. Some may want to join from Ipoh to Taiping or from Penang to Alor Star or Bukit Kayu Hitam.

That will be all for today and to know more please call me at 6012 6369227. or email: adnan1942@hotmail.com

Best Regards,

Adnan Osman

Bangkok

2001-01-01T08:00:00.000+08:00

Sunday 16th October 2011.
Somchai and I was supposed to meet at 11am,but by some strange 'force' we met along Sam Sen Road at 9am .I was hoping to get some breakfast along SamSen Rd when I suddenly bumped into Somchai on the same street. You see, Somchai stays about 30 km from Sam Sen Rd. He just decided to come out early and so we met. Strange but true.We had breakfast togather and after that we took the bus to go seightseeing togather with Din. We first took the bus to the area near the King's palace before continuing , walking in the 'ChinaTown'area.

What is interesting about the bus ride is,the ride was FOC. It is a service meant for the poor who find it costly to move around in Bangkok. The bus is very basic and without air-conditioning but serves a very basic need. Of course there are air-conditioned buses, taxis and the 'tuk-tuk' that you can use and pay . But the idea of free bus rides is indeed a brilliant idea by the authorities. How good if the same thing can happen in KL and PJ and other towns in Malaysia.

'Chinatown' in Bangkok is many times the size of Petaling Street and anything and everything can be found there. If you think Petaling Street can boast of immitation Rolex watches, perfumes and branded undergarments, here you can even get immitation 'penises' of various shapes and sizes.What would they think of next.

We also went to the main Railway Station to book a ticket for Din and the bicycle for the next day. Tickets to Butterworth were all sold out so Din had to contend with a ticket only to Hatyai. From Hatyai Din would need to ride to Bukit Kayu Hitam and then on to PJ by whatever he chooses. Me? Another story.

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