Thursday, December 22, 2011

Amazing Lahore

My original intention was to stay in Lahore for two days and then move on to Okara and onwards to Quetta and eventually to Taftan before crossing the border to Iran. However due to circumstances and the incredible generosity and friendliness of the people here, we have to be here for a few days more.

On the second day here Aede had a slight flu, so we thought we'd wait for another day. Then he had a bad toothache and had to visit the dentist. Upon examination the dentist advised him to come again the next day for x-ray and further examination . Then, there was infection and the final procedure, had to wait until the swelling subsides and the final decision is taken.It was finally decided that the tooth had to be extracted.
While here I attended a Sufi music and dance at the Jamal Shrine and I must say that it was a noisy affair with the drummers and dancers doing their stuff like they were possessed. The dancers were throwing their heads in all directions and twirling their bodies and arms round and round endlessly in a trance. The audience were all seated cross-legged or squatting round a wood-fire smoking. I am told that many are high on hashish that is illegal but at these Sufi gatherings, the authorities allow a certain leeway as long as no undesirable elements are present.

Aede and I also visited the Badshahi Mosque that was built in 1673 ,during
Shah Jehan's time.It is said that the mosque took three years to build , with the strength of 20,000 labour force and artisans. Much of the intricate work within the mosque are similar to those found in the Taj Mahal. The mosque can accomodate 100,000 worshippers at any one time. Outside the walls of the mosque is the Lahore Fort, another imposing structure that is the focus of many visitors to Lahore. Also in the same area is a beautiful Gudhwara. In fact Lahore has many grand old buildings, some of which were built during the British colonial period.

On Sunday.18th December, I had the opportunity to witness (attend) the biggest protest rally I had ever seen. It was held at the Menara Lahore and from my estimate there must have been more than a million people at the rally. In previous days before it, there were a lot of announcements made all over the city about the rally, asking people to attend and what struck me most is that there was not a single policeman or the anti-riot squad present, that we often see in Malaysia whenever we have a gathering . My reasoning is simple: if the people want to protest and hold a rally peacefully, no one can stop them, not in a democratic country. But everyone who wants to voice their protest must be present. For instance, do we have enough security personnel to stop 1,000,000 people from going to, say Dataran Merdeka to attend a rally. But of course there must be a good enough reason for the people to attend. The protest here in Lahore is to oppose the government's policy of allowing the US forces to operate freely in Pakistan resulting in many deaths among the innocent Pakistanis. At the rally leaders made fiery speeches but the people present were all calm and peaceful Those opposing the government in Malaysia can take the Q on how to organise a rally there.









On Monday,  the Lahore Guesthouse was the location for a TV family drama shoot starring Saleem Sheikh , Nadia Afghan, Kamran Mujahid and others and we were very lucky to be able to witness the shooting and also meet the stars, who were wery warm towards us, although they are big stars.They even obliged to have their pictures taken with us. That's how gracious and friendly Pakistanis can be. Mr Nauman (Naomi), the producer who is only 28 was also there to give us an insight into the TV and film industry in Pakistan.

At a KFC outlet, Aede and I also met Kiran Goraya who became our friends and we were even invited to the Goraya house for lunch. Shama Zaka, Kiran's sister is the President of (MYO) Pakistan and the treatment we got from the Gorayas made us feel that they are just like our own family.

Last night the Lahore Bacpackers was the venue for the exclusive performance by Badar Ali Khan and Bahadur Ali Khan of Hajvery Quwwal. They are well known in Pakistan. It was indeed a brilliant performance by the singers and musicians who performed in a small area as we sat around listening to their mesmerising renditions in a cosy atmosphere.Our stay here have indeed been wonderful.

One afternoon, Sajjad the GH manager took me on his motorcycle to visit his folks in the suburbs of Lahore some 8 km away. It is interesting to note that just outside the city, life has continued in many ways that were practised for many generations. Livestock are reared within the family house dwellings, dung for fuel dried on the walls outside the house, cattle, sheep and goats feeding on leaves and grass in the sheds within the enclosures of the dwellings and small children running around playing innocent children games. In the streets, Mecedes Benzs, BMWs, motor taxis, motorcycles, bicycles, horse and donkey carts and all kinds of transportation share the streets that is so picturesque and colourful. I am lucky to be able to experience such a wonderful mix of co-existance in the 21st century. ' And I said to myself, What a wonderful World' - Louis Armstrong.








The other thing I must mention here is, the incredible varieties of food that are found in Pakistan . We have sampled so many Biryani's, never from the same outlet, and although I am not much into food, they all taste different, yet heavenly . Unlike India, meat is widely used here and the varieties of barbequed meat, tikkas, kebabs, and other meat dishes,with exotic names, some of which I find very hot and spicy, can be had if you know where to get them. My only complain is that while I do enjoy these culinary delights, my stomach is not to happy with them. Very often after consuming them it began to growl violently and at times had to rush to expel the contents. White rice is not commonly sold as the people here seem to prefer naan, roti or chapatis. As for fruits, bananas, guavas, oranges and pomegranates are widely sold on the streets. (sorry no durians)
It is getting colder by the day, and I hope we are able to cope with that as we move on.





































With Umi Habibah and Katherine from Beijing


















NAdia and Saleem Sheikh












































7 comments:

Joe said...

Very interesting descriptions about the people and the places. Most interesting was the one about people rallying to protest and no FRU standby!!! We have a lot to learn from these people.

Anonymous said...

Merry Christmas Aede and Adnan.
May you all have a safe journey. Take care and God Bless. Love Melbourne

Doc Azlan said...

Hi Cikgu,

Good to know that you've made it to Lahore safe and sound.

Great write up on Pakistan (or rather Lahore). Sounds so much different from the picture we get from the mat salleh media...Pakistan being under siege and all that. Just finished reading a book by Rory Stewart who walked across Afghanistan just after the Taliban fell. His account of Afghanistan and Afghans is also very different from the media's.

Take care and keep well.

Anonymous said...

hai adnan, hai aede,hope the jouney is smooth. rough or smooth u will make it.i believe it will be very cold as u move toward west,especially when in turkey."west and winter" at this time of the year is unavoidable.hope u both r prepared.wish u both all the best.may god bless us all.bye.deen jb malaysia.

Anonymous said...

hai abang nan,longtime no see,why we didnt hear from u?hope u r on ur way.my friens working with me in the port of singapore authority [PSA]always ask me where r u now.i use to tell them that i am in contact with u. i tell the matter over the radio [walky talky] hundreds of them will be listening.they all send regards to u and your boy.hope to hear from u v ery soon.bye.Deen,j.b.Malaysia.

Anonymous said...

what happen to u nan and aede,why no news? Deen, J.B. Malaysia.

Anonymous said...

Where are you guys now? Hope to hear from you all soon. Melbourne.