The Hump Hostel at Jinmabiji is the focus point of most backpacking tourists in Kunming. It has dormitories, 8 bedded, 6, 4, with bath outside and double and triple rooms with attached bath. It also has a rooftop open air restaurant, bar, pool table, table tennis table and Internet/Wifi facilities. You can also book tour packages and airline tickets. Before I left Kunming, I had the opportunity to dine at a posh muslim restaurant, courtesy of Mr He Ning who was a Committee Member of the Communist Party in Yunan Province. Mr He is a close friend of Mike (66) from Alaska who is a cyclist and regular visitor to China. Mike who has also cycled extensively in many places in Asia and the Americas share many things in common with me: his wife is Chinese and they are both teachers like me, they also have 2 grown up sons.
Mr He Ning, a businessman, who was a GM of a company is now a director of some companies. According to Mr He Ning, Yunan is the biggest (60%) producer of cigarettes in China and the local Government encourages smoking to boost production and provide employment to the people. Unbelievable if it is true.
Without overland border crossing between China and India, I had no choice but to fly to Kolkata, India and unfortunately had to fork out a hefty sum for the ticket booked through the Hump Hostel. As check -out time was 12 noon and the flight was at 12.30am the next day I sat out the rest of the day at the hostel waiting for my ticket which was not delivered until 6pm. My young friend, Eric, on hearing of my plight, cycled 35km to make sure I make it to the airport to catch my flight by cycling with me to the airport at 9pm.
Another problem arose at the airport as there was no "security service wrap" for the bicycle. I finally had to fork out 100 Yuan to the luggage packaging personnel for an improvised box. Without Eric and some Chinese cyclists who were also flying with their bicycles (in boxes) to assist me, I would have missed the flight.
I reached Kolkata after some 2 hours 15 minutes, at 1.30am local time and clearing all formalities had to reassemble my bicycle watched by some uniformed security personnel ( with guns ). After more than 1 hour I decided to ride out to the city. The distance is about 30-35 kilometers but without the usual traffic. I reached that part of the city, known as Salt Lake City, as I later found out. It is a posh residential area that housed the well to do. On asking the way to the city center, from an elderly couple who were walking, (exercising) I was invited for breakfast at their residence, nearby. My riding attire and fully loaded bicycle was a strange sight to them. The kind gentleman was a retired doctor, Dr Roy, who has 2 daughters one in London and the other in China. He even helped me cross an overhead bridge with steps so that I could cross over to the other side to the city center. A good start in India.
At around 5.30am when it was already bright here and the traffic began to build up, I rode around asking people to direct me to the tourist area, when at an intersection, I saw a couple(cyclists) also with the same intention. We then joined forces and had breakfast together at a corner stall. We then found our way to Sudder Street where most foreign visitors and backpackers congregate. The couple, Stuart from Scotland and Heather from New Zealand ( http://uppingsticksontour.wordpress.com/ )and I finally landed at the same guesthouse, the Paragon. They stayed there for 3 days before leaving for the Andaman on a 60 hour boat ride. They are really a nice couple sharing their knowledge and experience with other cyclists. For some reasons the 'Paragon' seems to attract many touring cyclists (total of 6 cycle tourists).
Kolkata is the most crowded city in the world and the traffic and other conditions here are just beyond description. The streets are also home to thousands of the destitute, beggars the handicapped and stray animals. While the city now has TV, internet, mobile phones and fast food outlets(KFC, Dominos) many things have not changed in the last 50 years. There are still the barefoot rickshaw pullers, the cycle rickshaws, the three wheeled motor taxis, the rickety tram cars and the thousands of yellow or white taxis, what was known during the British rule, as Morris Oxford. It is of course produced in India under a different name now. Where ever you go you are not far from the smells of urine, faeces, dung and rotting garbage. The city is like one huge toilet. But then, that's what many tourists come to experience. According to Peter (63) an Australian who's been here 7 times in 32 years he wouldn't be here if the city changes its character.
My elder son (Aedewan) flew into Kolkata with his bicycle to join me for the rest of the journey and after one day in the city remarked, "we'd better get out of this mad place as soon as possible". Beside the poverty and squalor seen along the streets, Kolkata is scattered with very fine majestic colonial buildings like the Indian museum at the corner of Sudder St, the Victoria Memorial, etc.
to be continued.....
Mr He Ning, a businessman, who was a GM of a company is now a director of some companies. According to Mr He Ning, Yunan is the biggest (60%) producer of cigarettes in China and the local Government encourages smoking to boost production and provide employment to the people. Unbelievable if it is true.
Without overland border crossing between China and India, I had no choice but to fly to Kolkata, India and unfortunately had to fork out a hefty sum for the ticket booked through the Hump Hostel. As check -out time was 12 noon and the flight was at 12.30am the next day I sat out the rest of the day at the hostel waiting for my ticket which was not delivered until 6pm. My young friend, Eric, on hearing of my plight, cycled 35km to make sure I make it to the airport to catch my flight by cycling with me to the airport at 9pm.
Another problem arose at the airport as there was no "security service wrap" for the bicycle. I finally had to fork out 100 Yuan to the luggage packaging personnel for an improvised box. Without Eric and some Chinese cyclists who were also flying with their bicycles (in boxes) to assist me, I would have missed the flight.
I reached Kolkata after some 2 hours 15 minutes, at 1.30am local time and clearing all formalities had to reassemble my bicycle watched by some uniformed security personnel ( with guns ). After more than 1 hour I decided to ride out to the city. The distance is about 30-35 kilometers but without the usual traffic. I reached that part of the city, known as Salt Lake City, as I later found out. It is a posh residential area that housed the well to do. On asking the way to the city center, from an elderly couple who were walking, (exercising) I was invited for breakfast at their residence, nearby. My riding attire and fully loaded bicycle was a strange sight to them. The kind gentleman was a retired doctor, Dr Roy, who has 2 daughters one in London and the other in China. He even helped me cross an overhead bridge with steps so that I could cross over to the other side to the city center. A good start in India.
At around 5.30am when it was already bright here and the traffic began to build up, I rode around asking people to direct me to the tourist area, when at an intersection, I saw a couple(cyclists) also with the same intention. We then joined forces and had breakfast together at a corner stall. We then found our way to Sudder Street where most foreign visitors and backpackers congregate. The couple, Stuart from Scotland and Heather from New Zealand ( http://uppingsticksontour.wordpress.com/ )and I finally landed at the same guesthouse, the Paragon. They stayed there for 3 days before leaving for the Andaman on a 60 hour boat ride. They are really a nice couple sharing their knowledge and experience with other cyclists. For some reasons the 'Paragon' seems to attract many touring cyclists (total of 6 cycle tourists).
Kolkata is the most crowded city in the world and the traffic and other conditions here are just beyond description. The streets are also home to thousands of the destitute, beggars the handicapped and stray animals. While the city now has TV, internet, mobile phones and fast food outlets(KFC, Dominos) many things have not changed in the last 50 years. There are still the barefoot rickshaw pullers, the cycle rickshaws, the three wheeled motor taxis, the rickety tram cars and the thousands of yellow or white taxis, what was known during the British rule, as Morris Oxford. It is of course produced in India under a different name now. Where ever you go you are not far from the smells of urine, faeces, dung and rotting garbage. The city is like one huge toilet. But then, that's what many tourists come to experience. According to Peter (63) an Australian who's been here 7 times in 32 years he wouldn't be here if the city changes its character.
My elder son (Aedewan) flew into Kolkata with his bicycle to join me for the rest of the journey and after one day in the city remarked, "we'd better get out of this mad place as soon as possible". Beside the poverty and squalor seen along the streets, Kolkata is scattered with very fine majestic colonial buildings like the Indian museum at the corner of Sudder St, the Victoria Memorial, etc.
to be continued.....
4 comments:
kolkata oh kolkata,terrible city ha! i believe this must be culcutta the port city in the bay of bengal.i will thank anyone who can clear this fact for me.abang nan is there any road way through the land from china to india? so whats ur next move?i am looking at the world map.after varanasi there is kanpur,lucknow,agra and new delhi,wish u smooth sailing/riding bye. Deen from J.B. Malaysia.
So glad to hear from u after so long and that u r doing fine n well. It has been pouring in KL n we miss u. Hope to hear from u soon. With love from Goon and Kuan Yee
salam uncle,
zahariz here. i chat with aedewan yesterday and he told me about what happened. i suggest u guys leave to new delhi by train fast and straight cycle to amritsar to cross into pakistan. time is running out and the distance between delhi and pakistan border is less than 500km, so its doable. cycling from varanasi to the border is some 1300km, its almost impossible since ur visa is running out. plus, from ur report, i imagine indian roads are much worst than what i experienced in china. starting from delhi is the best option to me. at least u guys can experience cycling in india for a few days before proceeding into pakistan and iran. anyway, i feel really sorry for what happened to you. i hope u guys wont get demotivated. i think it gonna be difficult only at the beginning, and it will get easier after tehran. insya allah. all the best to the both of you... cycle at your own pace, enjoy every single moment!
Nice pictures!
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